Author: TidyMend Team

Quick answer: to apply static-cling privacy window film, clean the glass, spray it with water, cut the film to size, and smooth it on with a card to push out the bubbles. There is no glue. The film peels off without residue and can be reused. TidyMend’s sheet is 30 × 100 cm (about 11.8 × 39.4 in), with a frosted stripe pattern; for a larger pane you may need more than one piece, butted together.

What static-cling privacy film is

Static-cling privacy window film is a no-glue frosted film that clings to clean glass with water. It is used to add privacy to bathroom windows, glass doors and side panels while still letting light through. Because it is non-adhesive, you can peel it off and reuse it, which is useful if you are renting or you want a finish you can take down later.

This is not the same as window insulation film, which is a clear sheet stretched over a window and taped to the frame for winter. Privacy film sits on the glass itself and is there for privacy and light, not as a draught-proofing layer.

TidyMend’s static cling privacy window film is a 30 × 100 cm (about 11.8 × 39.4 in) sheet with a frosted stripe pattern, as shown in the product photo. It is static cling and non-adhesive, and you cut it to size. See more in Window Privacy Film.

What you need

• Static-cling privacy window film
• A tape measure and scissors (or a sharp knife and a straight edge)
• A cloth and glass cleaner, to wash and dry the pane
• A spray bottle of water
• A bank card, squeegee or similar stiff card, to smooth out bubbles

Step-by-step

1. Measure the glass. Measure the width and height of the pane you want to cover. One TidyMend sheet is 30 × 100 cm. If the pane is larger, plan how many pieces you will need and where they will meet. The listing notes that for a larger pane you may need more than one piece, butted together.
2. Clean the glass. Wash the pane so it is free of dust, grease and paint flecks, then let it dry. Grit left on the glass will show as bumps under the film.
3. Cut the film to size. Cut the sheet to the measurements you took. If you are covering a pane larger than 30 × 100 cm, cut the pieces so their edges will meet neatly.
4. Spray the glass with water. Mist the pane evenly. The film clings to clean glass with water; this is also what lets you slide the film into position and push the bubbles out.
5. Place and smooth the film. Offer the film up to the wet glass, then smooth it on with a card, working from the centre outwards to push out bubbles and excess water. Wipe the edges dry.
6. Join extra pieces if needed. For a larger pane, butt the next piece against the first and smooth it in the same way, so the join lies flat.

Tips

• Work on one pane at a time, and keep spare water in the spray bottle so the glass does not dry before the film is on.
• If a bubble remains, peel that area back gently, spray a little more water, and smooth it again.
• The frosted stripe pattern is as shown in the product photo, so line the stripes up if you are butting more than one piece together.
• Because the film is static cling and non-adhesive, you can peel it off later and reuse it. Clean the glass again before you put it back.

Frequently asked questions

Does this film use glue?

No. TidyMend’s privacy film is static cling and non-adhesive. It clings to clean glass with water, and it peels off without residue so it can be reused.

What size is the sheet?

One sheet is 30 × 100 cm (about 11.8 × 39.4 in). You cut it to size. For a larger pane you may need more than one piece, butted together.

Where can I use it?

The listing is for bathroom windows, glass doors and side panels, where you want privacy with light still coming through.

Is this the same as window insulation film?

No. Insulation film is a clear sheet fitted over a window and taped to the frame, usually for winter. See how to install window insulation film for that method. Privacy film sits on the glass and is for privacy, not for draught-proofing.

Can I take it down and use it again?

Yes. Because it is static cling and non-adhesive, you can peel it off without residue and reuse it. Clean the glass and spray it with water when you put the film back on.

Related

How to install window insulation film · How to install weather stripping on a door · Window Privacy Film · All TidyMend guides

Quick answer: to stop toys, balls and dust disappearing under a sofa or bed, measure the gap between the furniture and the floor, cut a gap-blocker strip to the length of the furniture, and stick it along the base so it closes the gap. TidyMend’s under-couch gap blocker is 5 cm high and 3 m long, and it suits gaps up to about 5 cm. Check that the strip sits evenly, including at the ends, so nothing can slip through.

Why things go under the sofa

Many sofas and beds sit just far enough off the floor for a toy, a ball or a dust build-up to disappear underneath, and just low enough that it is awkward to reach in and get them back. A gap blocker is a stick-on strip that closes that space. It is not a toy box or a storage solution; it simply fills the gap so items stop rolling under the furniture.

TidyMend’s under-couch gap blocker is an adhesive strip, 5 cm high and 3 m long, that you cut to length and stick along the base of a sofa or bed. It suits gaps up to about 5 cm. See more in Floor & Furniture Protectors.

What you need

• An under-couch gap blocker strip
• A tape measure
• Scissors or a cutter suitable for the strip
• A cloth, to clean and dry the furniture base and the floor edge before you stick the strip on

Step-by-step

1. Measure the gap. Measure the height of the space under the sofa or bed, in more than one place along the front (and along the sides if you plan to close those too). This strip is 5 cm high and suits gaps up to about that height. If the gap is clearly taller than 5 cm, this size will not close it.
2. Measure the length. Measure along the base of the furniture where you want to close the gap. The strip is 3 m long and is cut to length, so one length can cover a typical sofa front, or be split across more than one side if the total is 3 m or less.
3. Clean the surface. Wipe the furniture base (and the floor edge if the strip will sit against it) so it is free of dust, then let it dry. Adhesive strips stick better to a clean, dry surface.
4. Cut the strip. Cut the 3 m length to fit the run you measured. If you are closing more than one side, cut a piece for each side.
5. Stick it along the base. Peel the backing and press the strip along the base of the sofa or bed so it closes the gap to the floor. Keep it straight, and run your hand along the whole length so the adhesive sits flat.
6. Check the ends and corners. Look along the strip, especially at the ends, to make sure there is no leftover opening where a toy or dust could slip through. Press down any section that is not sitting flush.

Tips

• Do one side at a time if you are closing the front and the ends, and butt the cut ends neatly at the corners.
• If you later need to move the sofa, see how to use furniture sliders so you can ease it out without scratching the floor. Check the gap blocker afterwards, in case a section has lifted.
• This strip is for closing a low gap. It is not a way to raise furniture. If you want to lift a bed, sofa or table to make room for storage underneath, that is a different job, using stackable furniture risers (about 2.6 cm per layer).

Frequently asked questions

What size gap does the strip cover?

The TidyMend strip is 5 cm high and 3 m long, and it suits gaps under a sofa or bed of up to about 5 cm. Measure the gap first. If it is taller than that, this size will not close it.

Can I cut it to length?

Yes. The 3 m length is cut to fit the furniture. Measure along the base first, then cut the pieces you need.

Does it work on a bed as well as a sofa?

Yes. The listing is for closing the gap under a sofa or a bed, including in homes where children lose toys under the furniture.

Will it stop dust as well as toys?

The strip is listed for keeping toys, balls and dust from disappearing under the sofa, provided it sits evenly along the length and at the ends.

What if I want storage under the bed instead?

A gap blocker closes the gap; it does not create storage space. For extra height under a bed, sofa, table or cabinet, stackable furniture risers lift each leg by about 2.6 cm per layer. That is a separate product and a separate job.

Related

How to use furniture sliders · Under-couch gap blocker · Floor & Furniture Protectors · All TidyMend guides

Quick answer: to fit a stick-on window insect screen, measure the window opening, choose a screen that covers it, clean and dry the frame, then press the hook-and-loop strip around the frame and attach the mesh so it sits evenly over the opening. No drilling is needed. If the screen is slightly larger than the opening, trim it to fit. You can peel the screen off later to clean it or to open the window unobstructed.

What a stick-on window screen is

A stick-on window insect screen is a mesh panel that covers a window opening so you can keep the window open while helping to keep mosquitoes and flies out. It attaches to the frame with a hook-and-loop (hook-and-loop adhesive) strip, rather than being fitted into a rigid screen frame with spline. That makes it a useful option if you cannot drill the frame, or you want a screen you can take down for cleaning.

TidyMend currently sells two sizes:

• A 65 × 115 cm stick-on window insect screen (about 25.6 × 45.3 in) with a white sewn edge. It includes a self-adhesive hook-and-loop strip, can be trimmed slightly if needed, and can be removed for cleaning.
• A 50 × 50 cm hook-and-loop window screen mesh (about 19.7 × 19.7 in) in fiberglass, with hook-and-loop edging, for small windows and similar openings of that size. You can peel it off and refit it, with no drilling.

See more in Window Screens & Nets, or browse all Window & Door Screens.

What you need

• A stick-on or hook-and-loop window screen in a size that covers your opening
• A tape measure
• A cloth and a mild cleaner, to wash and dry the frame
• Scissors, if you need to trim the mesh slightly

Step-by-step

1. Measure the opening. Measure the width and height of the window opening, or of the frame area the screen will sit on, in more than one place. Compare those measurements with the screen size. The 65 × 115 cm screen can be trimmed slightly if needed. The 50 × 50 cm mesh is for openings of about that size. If the opening is much larger than the screen, this size will not cover it.
2. Clean and dry the frame. Wipe dust, cobwebs and grease off the frame so the hook-and-loop adhesive can stick. Let it dry completely.
3. Fit the hook-and-loop strip. For the 65 × 115 cm screen, use the included self-adhesive hook-and-loop strip. Press it around the window frame so it follows the opening, and run your fingers along the whole length so it sits flat. For the 50 × 50 cm mesh, the hook-and-loop border is already on the screen; you press that border onto the clean frame.
4. Trim if needed. If the 65 × 115 cm screen is slightly larger than the opening, trim it so the white sewn edge still has enough frame to sit on. Cut carefully and check the fit before you attach it for good.
5. Attach the mesh. Press the screen onto the hook-and-loop so the mesh covers the opening evenly, without large wrinkles or gaps at the corners. Smooth the edges down all the way round.
6. Check the fit. Look from inside and outside. The mesh should cover the opening, and the edges should be stuck down. Open the window and check that the screen stays in place.

Tips

• Fit the screen on a dry day, so the frame and the adhesive can stay dry while you work.
• If an edge lifts, press it down again. If the frame has become dusty, clean that section and refit the strip or the border.
• The 65 × 115 cm screen can be removed for cleaning. The 50 × 50 cm mesh can also be peeled off and refitted when you want.
• If the existing screen is only torn in a small area and the rest of the mesh is sound, a patch may be enough. See how to fix a hole in a window screen.
• For a doorway rather than a window, see how to install a magnetic screen door.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need to drill the window frame?

No. Both of the TidyMend screens above attach with hook-and-loop, with no drilling. That is useful on rented frames, or wherever you do not want to make holes.

Can I cut the screen to fit?

The 65 × 115 cm stick-on screen can be trimmed slightly if needed. Measure first, and leave enough edge to sit on the hook-and-loop around the opening. The 50 × 50 cm mesh is made for openings of about that size.

Will it work on a bedroom, kitchen or bathroom window?

The 65 × 115 cm screen is listed for bedroom, kitchen and bathroom windows, provided the opening is a size the screen can cover. Always measure the frame before you order.

Can I take the screen down?

Yes. The 65 × 115 cm screen can be removed for cleaning. The 50 × 50 cm fiberglass mesh can be peeled off and refitted when you want.

What if my window is already screened but has a hole in it?

For a small hole or tear in sound mesh, it is usually easier to patch it than to replace the whole screen. See how to fix a hole in a window screen.

Related

How to fix a hole in a window screen · How to install a magnetic screen door · Window Screens & Nets · All TidyMend guides

Quick answer: to organize kitchen cabinets before the busy holiday cooking season, empty one cabinet at a time, wipe the shelves and line them, then give each type of item its own place. Stand pot and pan lids upright on the inside of the cabinet door with stick-on pot lid holders (3 pairs), add a second level for spice jars with cabinet shelf risers for spices (2-pack), and put pantry jars on a heavy-duty rotating turntable (25 cm) so you can spin the back ones to the front. A cut-to-fit liner such as the non-slip EVA shelf liner (50 × 45 cm) stops plates and glasses sliding about.

All of these are in the Kitchen Organization and Shelf & Drawer Liners ranges.

What you need

• A tape measure, scissors and a damp cloth
• A shelf liner: the clear drawer and shelf liner roll (30 × 150 cm) (clear, non-adhesive, wipe-clean) or the non-slip EVA shelf liner (50 × 45 cm) (beige, textured on both sides, grips plates, glasses and tools)
• For lids: stick-on pot lid holders (3 pairs) (6 grey self-adhesive pieces, no drilling)
• For spices: cabinet shelf risers for spices (2-pack) (each about 14.7 × 11 × 10.7 cm, fixed size)
• For jars at the back of a shelf: a heavy-duty rotating turntable (25 cm) (25 cm plate, smooth 360° rotation, load up to 50 kg)

Step-by-step: organizing a kitchen cabinet

1. Empty the cabinet and sort what comes out into groups: lids, spices, jars, plates and glasses. Put aside anything you do not use.
2. Clean and dry the shelves. Wipe them with a damp cloth and let them dry before you add a liner or anything self-adhesive.
3. Measure and line the shelves. Measure each shelf, then trim the liner with scissors so it lies flat. Both liners are non-adhesive, so you can lift them out later to wipe them clean and put them back.
4. Move the lids to the door. Clean the inside of the cabinet door, stick each pair of pot lid holders level so a lid can rest between them, and let the adhesive set before you load a lid. Check that the door still closes once the lids are in place.
5. Add a level for spices. Measure the shelf height and depth against the riser size (about 14.7 × 11 × 10.7 cm) first, because it is not extendable. Stand the riser on the shelf and place jars on top and underneath so they are easier to reach. The two risers can sit side by side or in different cupboards.
6. Put jars on a turntable. Set a group of pantry jars on the textured non-slip top of the turntable and spin it to reach the back. Keep the load centred on the 25 cm plate and within 50 kg.
7. Put everything back by group, with the things you use most often at the front and at eye level.

Tips

• Do one cabinet at a time, so the kitchen stays usable while you cook.
• Use the clear liner when you want the original shelf finish to stay visible, and the non-slip EVA liner where plates and glasses tend to slide. Leftover EVA liner can be cut to fit smaller drawers.
• If a door will not shut properly once the lids are on it, see how to fix a cabinet door that won’t close.
• For the cabinet under the sink, follow how to organize under the kitchen sink, and for cutlery and utensil drawers see how to organize drawers with drawer dividers.

More options in the shop: the Magheo expandable pot lid organizer, 2 pack, the Amazon Basics 2-tier clear lazy susan, 9 in and the Copco 3-tier non-skid spice rack, 15 in (ships to the United States only).

Frequently asked questions

How do I store pot lids in a kitchen cabinet?

Stand them upright on the inside of the cabinet door. The stick-on pot lid holders come as 3 pairs (6 pieces) that hold most pot and pan lids with no drilling. Clean the door, stick each pair level, let the adhesive set before loading, and check the door still closes.

How do I make spices easier to reach in a cabinet?

Add a second level with a shelf riser so jars sit on top and underneath. The spice shelf risers are a 2-pack, each about 14.7 × 11 × 10.7 cm and fixed in size, so measure your shelf first.

Is a turntable useful in a kitchen cabinet?

Yes, for a group of pantry jars on a deep shelf. You spin the turntable to bring the back jars to the front. The heavy-duty turntable has a 25 cm plate, a textured non-slip top and a load of up to 50 kg. A clear plastic lazy susan turntable is also available in 23.6 cm or 27 cm (single layer) for a cabinet shelf, counter or fridge shelf.

Should I line kitchen shelves?

A liner protects shelves from spills, moisture and scratches. The clear liner roll is 30 × 150 cm and keeps the original surface visible; the EVA liner is 50 × 45 cm, textured on both sides and stops plates and glasses sliding. Both are non-adhesive and cut to fit with scissors.

Do I need to drill holes to organize my cabinets this way?

No. The pot lid holders are self-adhesive, and the risers, turntable and liners simply sit on the shelf.

Related guides

How to organize under the kitchen sink · How to organize drawers with drawer dividers · How to fix a cabinet door that won’t close · Kitchen Organization · All TidyMend guides

Quick answer: toilet seat bumpers are the small rubber pads under the seat and lid that cushion them when they close. If yours are worn or missing and the seat rattles, shifts or bangs, check the underside of the seat first. If it has bumper slots, press slot-in replacements into the slots, like the toilet seat and lid bumper set (6 pieces) (4 seat bumpers and 2 round lid bumpers). If there are no slots, or the original slotted bumpers are missing and a stick-on fix is easier, clean and dry the seat and press on self-adhesive bumpers such as the stick-on toilet seat bumpers (4-pack).

Both types are in Toilet Seat & Lid Bumpers, part of the Bathroom Fixes & Accessories range.

Slot-in or stick-on: which toilet seat bumpers do you need?

• The seat and lid have bumper slots: toilet seat and lid bumper set (6 pieces). Six white rubber pieces, made up of 4 seat bumpers and 2 round lid bumpers, that press into the slots under the seat and lid. They are for replacing worn or missing bumpers, cushioning the seat and lid, and reducing rattling, and they fit most seats with bumper slots.
• There are no slots, or a stick-on fix is easier: stick-on toilet seat bumpers (4-pack). A pack of 4 self-adhesive bumpers, each about 4.5 × 2 cm (1.77 × 0.79 in). They stick under the seat, lift it slightly and help stop it sliding and slamming. They suit a seat that shifts or bangs, or one whose original slotted bumpers are missing.

What you need

• Replacement bumpers (slot-in or stick-on, see above)
• A cloth to clean and dry the underside of the seat

Step-by-step: replacing slot-in seat and lid bumpers

1. Lift the seat and lid and look underneath for the slots that hold the bumpers.
2. Remove the worn bumpers from the slots under the seat and the lid.
3. Press in the new bumpers. The set has four seat bumpers for the underside of the seat and two round lid bumpers for the underside of the lid.
4. Check each one sits flush. If a bumper feels loose, reseat it so its shoulder sits flush with the underside of the seat or lid.
5. Close the seat and lid to check they sit evenly.

Step-by-step: fitting stick-on toilet seat bumpers

1. Clean and dry the underside of the seat where the bumpers will go. The adhesive needs a clean, dry surface.
2. Plan the positions. Place the four bumpers where they will cushion the seat and help reduce the gap, spaced so the seat sits evenly.
3. Peel and press. Peel the backing off each bumper and press it firmly in place.
4. Lower the seat and check that it sits evenly and no longer slides or bangs.

Tips

• Use slot-in bumpers when your seat has slots, and stick-on bumpers when it does not or the slots are damaged.
• Bumpers cushion and steady the seat. If the whole seat moves at the hinges, check the hinge fixings as well.
• The slot-in set is white, so it blends in on a white seat.

Frequently asked questions

What are toilet seat bumpers?

They are small rubber pads under the toilet seat and lid. They cushion the seat and lid when they close, so they rattle and bang less.

How do I know if my toilet seat has bumper slots?

Lift the seat and lid and look underneath. If the old bumpers pressed into slots, or you can see empty slots, use slot-in bumpers such as the 6-piece seat and lid set, which fits most seats with bumper slots.

Can I use stick-on bumpers if the original bumpers are missing?

Yes. Self-adhesive bumpers are useful when the original slotted bumpers are missing or a stick-on fix is easier. Clean and dry the underside of the seat, peel the backing and press them on.

How many bumpers come in each pack?

The slot-in set has 6 pieces: 4 seat bumpers and 2 round lid bumpers. The stick-on pack has 4 bumpers, each about 4.5 × 2 cm (1.77 × 0.79 in).

Will new bumpers stop a toilet seat from sliding?

The stick-on bumpers lift the seat slightly and help stop it sliding and slamming. Slot-in bumpers cushion the seat and lid and reduce rattling.

Related guides

How to use caulk tape around a bath or sink · How to use a grout pen · How to fix a cabinet door that won’t close · Bathroom Fixes & Accessories · All TidyMend guides

Quick answer: most cabinet doors that will not close properly have one of three problems. If the door sags or the hinge is loose because the screws no longer hold, fit a hinge repair plate to give the hinge fresh screw holes. If the door swings open on its own, fit a magnetic catch. If it bangs shut, stick soft bumpers where the door meets the frame. For handle-free doors, push-to-open latches let the door pop open with a tap and stay shut with a magnet.

A quick check of the kitchen cupboards is worth doing before a busy spell of holiday cooking. TidyMend’s fixes are in Cabinet Hardware Fixes.

Which fix do you need?

• Door sags, or the hinge screws spin and will not hold: cabinet hinge repair plates (4 pairs). Stainless steel plates that cover the damaged area and give a standard concealed hinge fresh, solid screw holes. 4 pairs (8 plates) with screws, enough for several kitchen, bathroom or wardrobe doors.
• Door will not stay shut: stainless steel magnetic cabinet catch. A screw-mounted magnet (53 × 22 × 14 mm) inside the cabinet and a strike plate on the door, so the door clicks shut and stays closed. It suits wooden kitchen, bathroom, wardrobe and cupboard doors and can replace a worn or missing catch.
• Door or drawer bangs when it closes: clear cabinet door bumper set (64 pieces). 64 clear, soft rubber, self-adhesive pieces in 3 sizes: small 8 × 2 mm dots, 35 × 10 × 2 mm strips and 40 × 8 mm pads.
• Handle-free doors and drawers: push-to-open cabinet latches (7-pack). Magnetic latches with a spring push mechanism, mounted inside the cabinet frame. Press the door to pop it open, press again to close, and the magnet holds it shut.

What you need

• A screwdriver
• The fix that matches the problem (see above)
• A cloth to clean and dry surfaces before fitting stick-on bumpers

Step-by-step: fixing a sagging door with a hinge repair plate

1. Check the fit first. Compare the hinge cup size and screw positions with the plate before you start. The plates are for standard concealed cabinet hinges.
2. Remove the loose hinge. Support the door while you unscrew the hinge from the damaged area.
3. Fit the plate. Hold a plate over the damaged area so the new holes line up, and fix it with the included screws.
4. Refit the hinge into the fresh holes, then open and close the door to check that it sits level.

Step-by-step: stopping a door swinging open with a magnetic catch

1. Find the spot where the inside of the cabinet and the door meet when the door is closed.
2. Screw the magnet inside the cabinet at that spot.
3. Screw the strike plate on the door so it meets the magnet when the door is closed.
4. Test it. The door should click shut and stay closed.

Step-by-step: quieting a slamming door with bumpers

1. Clean and dry the spot where the door or drawer meets the frame.
2. Choose a size. Use the small dots for most doors, strips for a longer contact edge, or the larger pads where there is more room.
3. Peel and press each bumper on firmly, then close the door to check it shuts evenly.

Tips

• Check the hinge type and measurements against a product before you buy, especially for hinge plates.
• With push-to-open latches, check the fit and closing gap on one door before you fix every latch, and line each one up so the door meets the magnet squarely.
• If a cabinet door or handle knocks a wall or fridge door when it opens, clear silicone edge bumper strips (150 × 15 × 2 mm, clear soft silicone) can be stuck at the contact point and trimmed with scissors.
• To stop small children opening cabinets, see how to childproof your home for stick-on cabinet locks and latches.

Frequently asked questions

Why won’t my cabinet door close?

Common reasons are a loose or sagging hinge, often because the screw holes are stripped, a worn or missing catch, or something inside the cabinet getting in the way. Check that nothing is blocking the door, then look at the hinge and the catch.

How do I fix a cabinet hinge when the screw holes are stripped?

Fit a hinge repair plate over the damaged area. The plate gives the hinge fresh, solid screw holes. TidyMend’s plates are stainless steel, for standard concealed cabinet hinges, and come as 4 pairs with screws.

How do I keep a cabinet door from swinging open?

Fit a magnetic catch: a magnet screwed inside the cabinet and a strike plate on the door, so the door clicks shut and stays closed.

How do I stop cabinet doors from slamming?

Stick soft bumpers where the door or drawer meets the frame. The clear bumper set has 64 self-adhesive rubber pieces in three sizes.

Do push-to-open latches need handles?

No. They are for handle-free doors and drawers. You press the front to open it, and press again to close it, and the magnet holds it shut.

Related guides

How to organize under the kitchen sink · How to organize drawers with drawer dividers · How to childproof your home · Drawer & Cabinet Organization · How to organize kitchen cabinets · All TidyMend guides

Quick answer: to stop a small drip from a pipe or hose until it can be repaired properly, turn off the water to that pipe, dry the area, then wrap self-fusing silicone repair tape tightly around the leak, stretching it as you go and overlapping each wrap by about half the tape width so the layers fuse together. For cracks on gutters, roofs, skylights or window frames, a thick aluminium butyl repair tape pressed onto a clean, dry surface is the better fit. Tape is a temporary fix: arrange a permanent repair as soon as you can.

Cold weather is when many people first notice a drip from a pipe in a garage, loft or under a sink, or a split garden hose. It helps to have the right tape in a drawer before you need it. TidyMend’s tapes are in Repair Tape.

Which repair tape for which leak?

• Small leaks on pipes and hoses: self-fusing silicone repair tape. A white, 25 mm wide, 1 m long silicone tape with no glue. It bonds to itself as you stretch and wrap it, so each layer fuses to the one below. It is described for temporary repairs of small leaks on pipes and hoses, and for wrapping a worn handle.
• Roofs, gutters, skylights, window frames and pipes: aluminium butyl repair tape. A 10 cm × 5 m roll with an aluminium foil face and thick butyl rubber adhesive, for patching leaks and cracks indoors or outdoors. The thick adhesive presses into rough surfaces.
• Everyday repairs and bundling: cloth duct tape. A single roll of cloth-backed, all-purpose tape for household repairs, bundling, packing and moving. It is not the tape for leaks; use one of the two tapes above for those.

What you need

• The right repair tape for the job (see above)
• A dry cloth or towel
• Scissors to cut the tape
• A bucket or bowl to catch drips

Step-by-step: wrapping a dripping pipe or hose with self-fusing tape

1. Turn off the water. Close the valve for that pipe, or the main stopcock, and open a tap to let the pressure out. For a hose, turn off the outdoor tap.
2. Dry the area. Wipe the pipe or hose so it is as dry as you can get it around the leak.
3. Start beyond the leak. Begin wrapping a little to one side of the drip, not right on it.
4. Stretch and overlap. Stretch the tape firmly as you wrap and overlap each turn by about half the tape width, so each layer fuses to the one below. There is no backing glue, so the stretch is what makes it bond.
5. Finish past the leak. Carry on wrapping until you are a little past the leak on the other side, then cut the tape and press the end down.
6. Test it. Turn the water back on slowly and check for drips. If it still leaks, turn the water off and add more wraps.

Step-by-step: patching a gutter, roof or window frame with butyl tape

1. Pick a dry day and clean the surface around the crack so it is free of dirt and loose material, then let it dry.
2. Cut a piece from the 10 cm wide roll that covers the crack with room to spare on every side.
3. Peel and press. Peel off the backing and press the foil face down so the thick butyl adhesive beds into the surface.
4. Press the edges firmly. Run your fingers or a cloth along every edge, because the edges are where water gets in.

Work safely: if a repair means climbing to a roof or high gutter, use suitable access equipment and a helper, or get a professional to do it.

When tape is not enough

• If a pipe has burst, split along its length, or water is spraying out, turn off the water at the main stopcock and call a plumber.
• If a pipe has frozen, turn off the water and get advice before you try to thaw or wrap it.
• Use tape to buy time, not as the final repair. The self-fusing tape is described as a quick fix until a permanent repair can be made.
• For small repairs on plastic, metal, wood, ceramic or rubber items (not pipes), multi-purpose super glue with precision tips may suit better. Keep it away from skin and eyes and out of reach of children.

Tips

• Keep a roll of each tape in a kitchen drawer, toolbox or garage so it is there when a drip starts.
• Cut or tear off only the length you need.
• Check a taped pipe every day or so until it is properly repaired.

Frequently asked questions

Can you fix a leaking pipe with tape?

For a small leak, yes, as a temporary fix. Turn off the water, dry the pipe and wrap self-fusing silicone tape tightly over the leak, stretching it and overlapping each turn by about half the tape width. Arrange a permanent repair as soon as you can.

What is self-fusing silicone tape?

It is a silicone tape with no glue. When you stretch it and wrap it around itself, each layer fuses to the one below. TidyMend’s tape is white, 25 mm wide and 1 m long.

Does self-fusing tape need a dry surface?

It bonds to itself rather than to the pipe, but drying the area first and turning off the water makes it much easier to wrap tightly and get a good seal.

What tape is best for a leaking gutter or roof?

Aluminium butyl repair tape. It has an aluminium foil face and a thick butyl adhesive that presses into rough surfaces, and it is described for roofs, gutters, pipes, skylights and window frames, indoors or outdoors. Apply it to a clean, dry surface and press the edges firmly.

Can I use duct tape on a leaking pipe?

Cloth duct tape is an all-purpose tape for household repairs and bundling. For leaks on pipes or roofs, use the self-fusing silicone tape or the aluminium butyl tape, which are made for those repairs.

Related guides

How to organize under the kitchen sink · How to use caulk tape · How to install window insulation film · Repair Tapes & Adhesives · All TidyMend guides

Quick answer: to hide a light scratch on wooden furniture, test a touch-up marker on a hidden spot, pick the shade closest to your wood, colour in the scratch with the fine tip in thin layers, and wipe off any extra before it dries. Touch-up markers are for small marks such as scratches, chips and worn edges, not deep damage. For tears in faux leather, a self-adhesive patch covers the spot without glue or sewing.

A quick touch-up is worth doing before guests arrive for the holidays, or after moving furniture around. TidyMend’s furniture fixes are in Furniture Repair.

What you need

• The furniture touch-up marker set (6 colours): six markers in common wood shades with a fine tip for small marks
• A soft, dry cloth
• A hidden spot on the furniture to test the colour

Step-by-step: how to fix scratches with a touch-up marker

1. Look at the damage. Markers suit scratches, chips and worn edges on wooden tables, chairs, cabinets, doors, skirting boards, trim and floors. Deep gouges or missing pieces of wood need a different repair. For a small broken piece on plastic, metal, wood, ceramic or rubber, multi-purpose super glue with precision tips may help.
2. Clean the area. Wipe away dust so the colour goes onto the wood, not onto dirt.
3. Test the shade. Try the colours on a hidden spot first and pick the one closest to your wood.
4. Colour in the mark. Use the fine tip to colour in the scratch or chip, working in thin layers.
5. Wipe off any extra. Wipe off excess colour before it dries, then add another thin layer if the mark still shows.

Fixing a tear in a faux leather sofa or chair

The self-adhesive leather repair patch (25 × 30 cm) is a PU faux leather sheet with an adhesive backing for covering small tears, cracks and worn spots on sofas, chairs, headboards and seat cushions.

1. Clean the worn or torn area and let it dry.
2. Check the colour against your furniture before you cut; colours can vary by batch and screen.
3. Cut the sheet to shape and round the corners so the edges are less likely to lift.
4. Peel off the backing and press the patch on firmly, working from the centre out.

Replacing broken or worn furniture feet

• wooden replacement furniture legs (4-pack, 8 cm): tapered natural wood legs, 8 cm (about 3.1 in) high, with mounting plates and screws, for sofas, beds, armchairs and cabinets. Screw a plate to the underside, thread on the leg and repeat for all four so the piece sits level. Check that the plate will sit flat before you screw it on.
• adjustable cabinet legs (4-pack, 80–100 mm): screw-on black plastic feet, adjustable from 80 to 100 mm (about 3.1–3.9 in), with clips, for levelling and lifting kitchen and bathroom base cabinets or replacing broken cabinet feet. Twist each leg until the unit is steady and the doors line up.

Preventing new scratches

Furniture that is dragged, or that shifts on a hard floor, can leave new scratches. Felt pads and sliders under the legs help; see how to use furniture sliders. A door stop also keeps a door from hitting the wall: see how to choose and use a door stop.

Tips

• Always test the marker colour on a hidden spot first.
• Thin layers look more natural than one heavy coat.
• For dents and holes in a painted wall rather than wood, see how to fill nail holes in a wall.

Frequently asked questions

Do furniture touch-up markers work on deep scratches?

They are meant for small marks such as scratches, chips and worn edges, not deep damage. Colour in the mark in thin layers and wipe off any extra.

How do I choose the right colour?

The TidyMend set has six markers in common wood shades. Test them on a hidden spot and pick the one closest to your wood.

Can I use touch-up markers on wooden floors and doors?

Yes. The set is for scratches and chips on wooden furniture, doors, floors, skirting boards and trim.

How do I fix a small tear in a faux leather sofa?

Clean and dry the area, cut the self-adhesive leather repair patch to shape with rounded corners, then peel and press it on from the centre out. Check the colour against your sofa first.

What height are the replacement furniture legs?

The wooden replacement legs are 8 cm high and come as a set of four with mounting plates and screws. The adjustable cabinet legs set between 80 and 100 mm.

Related guides

How to use furniture sliders · How to fill nail holes in a wall · How to childproof your home · Furniture & Wall Protection · All TidyMend guides

Quick answer: to organize a drawer with drawer dividers, empty it, measure the inside, then either cut adjustable divider strips to length and snap them into compartments, or mix and match ready-made trays so each type of item has its own spot. A liner underneath helps stop things sliding around. Start with the drawer you open most, such as the kitchen utensil drawer or a desk drawer.

Clearing out a few drawers is a good small job for the quiet days after the holidays. TidyMend’s dividers and trays are in Drawer Dividers, and liners are in Shelf & Drawer Liners.

Which drawer divider do you need?

• Cut-to-fit strips for any drawer size: adjustable plastic drawer dividers. Interlocking plastic strips, about 37 cm (14.5 in) long and 7 cm (2.8 in) tall before cutting, that you cut to length and snap together to make compartments. Good for utensils, stationery, socks and toiletries.
• Ready-made trays for small items: clear drawer organizer trays (4-piece set). Four clear plastic trays in four sizes (S, M, L, XL) that you mix and match to fit the drawer. Because they are clear, it is easy to see what is in each one. Good for makeup, stationery, office supplies and small kitchen tools.

What you need

• A tape measure
• Drawer dividers or organizer trays
• Scissors or a cutter suitable for the divider strips, if you are cutting them to length
• Optional: a drawer liner, cut to fit
• A damp cloth to wipe the drawer out

Step-by-step: how to organize a drawer with dividers

1. Empty the drawer. Take everything out, wipe the drawer with a damp cloth and let it dry.
2. Sort what goes back in. Group the items by type (for example cutlery, utensils and gadgets, or pens, notes and chargers) and set aside anything that belongs elsewhere.
3. Measure the inside of the drawer. Measure the length, width and depth. The adjustable dividers are about 7 cm tall, so check they suit the drawer depth before cutting.
4. Add a liner (optional). Trim a liner with scissors so it lies flat in the bottom of the drawer.
5. Fit the dividers or trays. Cut the divider strips to length and snap them together into compartments, or arrange the S, M, L and XL trays so they fill the space.
6. Put items back by group. Give each group its own compartment, with the things you use most at the front.

Drawer liners: non-slip or clear?

• non-slip EVA shelf liner (50 × 45 cm): a beige, textured, non-adhesive EVA liner that grips on both sides and cushions the drawer, so plates, glasses and tools slide around less. Trim it with scissors; it can be lifted out and wiped clean.
• clear drawer and shelf liner roll (30 × 150 cm): a clear, non-adhesive, wipe-clean liner that protects drawers and shelves from spills, moisture and scratches while keeping the original surface visible. Trim it with scissors to fit.

Ideas by room

• Kitchen: cut-to-fit dividers for utensils and gadgets; small trays for little tools.
• Desk: trays or dividers for stationery and office supplies. For the cables on top of and under the desk, see how to hide and organize desk cables.
• Bedroom: dividers to keep socks and accessories in separate compartments.
• Bathroom: clear trays for makeup and toiletries, so you can see what is in each one.

Tips

• Measure before you cut; you can always trim a strip shorter, but not longer.
• Rearrange the trays or unsnap and recut the dividers if what you keep in the drawer changes.
• If something spills, wipe the trays or liner with a damp cloth and let them dry before putting them back.

More options in the shop: the Vtopmart 28-pack clear drawer organizer trays and the KICHLY 25-piece clear drawer organizer set.

Frequently asked questions

Can I cut drawer dividers to fit my drawer?

Yes. TidyMend’s adjustable plastic drawer dividers are cut-to-fit strips, about 37 cm long and 7 cm tall before cutting, that snap together into compartments. Measure the drawer first, then cut the strips to length.

Are trays or dividers better?

Cut-to-fit dividers make compartments across the whole drawer and suit longer items such as utensils. Trays suit small items such as makeup and stationery, and the clear 4-piece set comes in four sizes you can mix and match.

How tall are the adjustable drawer dividers?

About 7 cm (2.8 in) tall, so check the inside depth of the drawer before you cut them.

Do I need a drawer liner?

It is optional. A non-slip liner helps stop items sliding around, and a clear liner protects the drawer from spills and scratches while keeping the surface visible. Both are non-adhesive and cut to fit.

How do I clean the trays and liners?

Wipe them with a damp cloth and let them dry before putting them back in the drawer.

Related guides

How to organize under the kitchen sink · How to hide and organize desk cables · How to childproof your home · Drawer & Cabinet Organization · How to organize kitchen cabinets · All TidyMend guides

Quick answer: to childproof a home, start with the biggest risks: anchor tall furniture such as dressers and bookcases to the wall with anti-tip furniture straps, fit locks or latches to cabinets, drawers and the fridge, and limit how far sliding windows and doors can open. Fit everything a day ahead, because most stick-on locks need 24 hours for the adhesive to set. Safety products help, but they are not a substitute for adult supervision.

A quick check is worth doing before small children come to stay over the holidays, as well as when a baby starts to crawl or climb. TidyMend’s child safety products are in Anti-Tip & Child Safety.

Childproofing checklist

• Tall dressers, chests of drawers and bookcases anchored to the wall
• Kitchen and bathroom cabinets and drawers latched or locked
• Fridge, freezer and washing machine locked if children can reach them
• Sliding windows and patio doors limited or locked

Step 1: Anchor tall furniture with anti-tip straps

The furniture anti-tip strap kit uses stainless steel brackets joined by a steel cable, with screws included.

1. Choose the furniture. Start with tall dressers, chests of drawers and bookcases, especially in children’s bedrooms and playrooms.
2. Find a fixing point. Fix into a wall stud, or use anchors suited to your wall type.
3. Fit the brackets. Fix one bracket to the furniture and the other to the wall.
4. Join them with the cable. Connect the two brackets with the steel cable.
5. Check before use. Make sure both brackets are tight before you load or use the furniture.

Step 2: Lock cabinets, drawers and appliances

• adhesive child safety cabinet locks (3-pack): white stick-on locks with an adjustable strap for cabinets, drawers, fridges, bins and toilet lids. They open with a press of the button. Let the adhesive cure for 24 hours.
• stick-on drawer and cabinet safety latches (5-pack): small pink adhesive latches, about 9 × 3.5 cm, that stick across the gap of a drawer or cabinet door. Let the adhesive set for 24 hours.
• keyed fridge and cabinet lock: a round black stick-on lock with a flexible steel cable and a key, for the fridge, freezer, cabinets or washing machine. Stick the two pads on either side of the door and wait 24 hours before use.

For all three: clean the surface first, press the pads on firmly, and wait the full time before relying on the lock.

For sharp table, desk and shelf corners, clear rounded corner guards (10-pack) or silicone corner and edge guards stick on and are less noticeable than coloured bumpers. Clean the corner first; let the rounded guards set for 24 hours before the furniture is used as normal.

Step 3: Limit sliding windows and doors

• sliding window stopper lock: a silver clamp-on aluminium stopper that limits how far a sliding window or door can open. Tighten it on the track with the included hex key; no drilling. Check that it fits your track before relying on it for child safety.
• sliding window and door child safety lock with keys (2-pack): black keyed locks, each with 2 keys, that stop sliding windows, patio doors and sliding cabinets from being opened. These are screw mounted and need an 11 mm hole drilled, so plan where each lock will sit on the frame first.

No-drill options for rented homes

The adhesive cabinet locks, the stick-on drawer latches, the keyed fridge lock and the clamp-on sliding window stopper need no drilling. The anti-tip strap kit and the keyed sliding window lock are screwed in. Check your tenancy agreement before fixing anything into walls or frames.

Tips

• Fit stick-on locks the day before you need them so the adhesive can set.
• Keep spare keys for keyed locks somewhere safe and out of reach of children.
• Re-check anchors and locks every so often, and after moving furniture.
• Use these products together with adult supervision.

Frequently asked questions

Do anti-tip furniture straps need drilling?

Yes. The TidyMend anti-tip strap kit fixes one bracket to the furniture and one to the wall, into a wall stud or anchors suited to your wall. Screws are included.

Which furniture should I anchor first?

Tall furniture such as dressers, chests of drawers and bookcases, starting with children’s bedrooms and playrooms.

How long before I can use a stick-on cabinet lock?

For the adhesive cabinet locks, the stick-on latches and the keyed fridge lock, clean the surface and wait 24 hours before use.

Can I childproof a sliding window without drilling?

The sliding window stopper lock clamps onto the track with a hex key, with no drilling. Check that it fits your track first. The keyed sliding window and door lock needs an 11 mm hole.

Can I lock the fridge or washing machine?

Yes. The keyed fridge and cabinet lock sticks on either side of the door and locks with a steel cable and key. The adhesive cabinet locks also work on fridges.

Related guides

How to choose and use a door stop · How to use furniture sliders · How to organize under the kitchen sink · How to fix a cabinet door that won’t close · All TidyMend guides