How to Install Weather Stripping on a Door and Windows

Quick answer: to install weather stripping on a door, clean and dry the door frame, measure the top and both sides of the frame where the door closes against it, cut a self-adhesive foam strip to each length, and press it onto the doorstop (the strip of frame the door shuts against). Close the door to check it still latches. Use foam strips for hinged doors and windows, and pile brush strips for sliding doors and windows.

This guide covers the sides and top of doors and windows. For the gap under a door, see our guide on how to stop drafts under a door.

What is weather stripping?

Weather stripping (weatherstripping, or draught strip in the UK) is a flexible strip fitted around a door or window so it closes against something soft instead of leaving a gap. When the door or window shuts, the strip compresses and fills the space between the moving part and the frame. A “draught excluder” usually means something that sits at the bottom of a door, such as a fabric tube or a door bottom seal, but people also use the term for any draught-proofing strip.

Which type of weather stripping do you need?

Foam strips for hinged doors and windows. Self-adhesive foam that you cut to length and stick to the frame. TidyMend sells a wedge-profile foam window and door seal strip (5 m roll) and EVA foam weatherstripping tape (5 m × 30 mm × 3 mm).
Foam for sliding windows. The self-adhesive foam seal for sliding windows (10 m, white) sticks along the frame or sash and compresses when the window is shut.
Pile brush strips for sliding doors and windows. Brush seals let the panel slide past while filling the gap. Options include the wool pile weatherstrip (9 × 23 mm × 5 m), the brush weatherstrip for aluminium sliding doors (10 m, 5 × 8 mm) and sliding-door track seal blocks for the open end of a track.

See them all in Window & Door Weatherstripping.

Before you start: check the gap

Close the door on a sheet of paper at several points along the sides and top. If the paper slides out easily, there is a gap there. Look at the gap size too: a thin strip suits a small, even gap, while a deeper strip or a brush seal suits a wider gap. If the strip is too thick, the door may be hard to close.

Step-by-step: weather stripping a hinged door

Remove old strips. Pull off any worn weather stripping and scrape away old adhesive.
Clean and dry the frame. Wipe the doorstop with a damp cloth and let it dry fully. Self-adhesive strips stick best to a clean, dry, smooth surface.
Measure. Measure the top of the frame and each side, from the top corner down to the floor or threshold.
Cut the strips. Cut one piece for the top and one for each side with sharp scissors. Cut each piece slightly long; you can trim it once it is in place.
Fit the top first. Peel back a short length of backing, line the strip up along the doorstop where the face of the door touches it, and press it on as you peel. Keep it straight and do not stretch it.
Fit the sides. Start each side strip at the top so it butts up neatly against the top piece, then work down. On the hinge side, fit the strip to the doorstop in the same way.
Press firmly. Run your thumb along every strip to bed the adhesive down.
Test the door. Close and open the door several times. It should latch without forcing. If it is very stiff, the strip may be too thick for that gap.

Step-by-step: weather stripping windows

Hinged (casement) windows: clean the frame where the window closes, cut a foam strip to each side and stick it to the frame so the window presses onto it when shut.
Sliding windows and doors: clean the frame or track. Stick the foam seal along the frame or sash, or fit a pile brush strip where the panel meets the frame. Check that the window or door still slides freely.
Track ends: fit a track seal block at the open end of a sliding track to close that gap.

For extra help in winter, clear window insulation film adds a layer over the window glass, and a window sill rain diverter helps guide rainwater away from a sill.

Tips

Fit strips in dry weather and at room temperature where you can, so the adhesive sticks to a dry surface.
Do not stretch foam as you apply it; stretched foam can shrink back and leave gaps at the ends.
Butt the corners together neatly so there is no gap where two strips meet.
Check strips from time to time and replace any that are flattened, torn or peeling.
Some adhesives may mark painted frames when removed, which is worth bearing in mind in a rented home.

More options in the shop: the Alien Draft Seal clear silicone weatherstrip, 49 ft (ships to the United States only) and the Litaibai kerf door weatherstrip, 40 ft (ships to the United States only).

Frequently asked questions

Where exactly does weather stripping go on a door?

On the doorstop, the raised strip of frame that the door closes against, along the top and both sides. The face of the closed door should press onto the strip.

What is the difference between weather stripping and a draught excluder?

Weather stripping usually means strips fitted around the frame. A draught excluder usually means a seal or tube at the bottom of the door. Many doors need both: strips for the frame and a door bottom seal for the gap underneath.

Foam or brush: which should I choose?

Foam suits hinged doors and windows that close against the frame. Brush (pile) strips suit sliding doors and windows, where the panel moves along the seal.

My door will not close after fitting the strip. What now?

The strip is probably too thick for the gap. Remove it from the side that binds and fit a thinner strip there.

Can I weather strip a uPVC or aluminium frame?

Self-adhesive strips can be fitted to most clean, smooth frames. For aluminium sliding doors and windows, a pile brush weatherstrip that fits the track is the usual choice. Check the profile size against your track before you buy.

How to Install Weather Stripping on a Door (and Windows)