Author: TidyMend Team

Quick answer: to install weather stripping on a door, clean and dry the door frame, measure the top and both sides of the frame where the door closes against it, cut a self-adhesive foam strip to each length, and press it onto the doorstop (the strip of frame the door shuts against). Close the door to check it still latches. Use foam strips for hinged doors and windows, and pile brush strips for sliding doors and windows.

This guide covers the sides and top of doors and windows. For the gap under a door, see our guide on how to stop drafts under a door.

What is weather stripping?

Weather stripping (weatherstripping, or draught strip in the UK) is a flexible strip fitted around a door or window so it closes against something soft instead of leaving a gap. When the door or window shuts, the strip compresses and fills the space between the moving part and the frame. A “draught excluder” usually means something that sits at the bottom of a door, such as a fabric tube or a door bottom seal, but people also use the term for any draught-proofing strip.

Which type of weather stripping do you need?

• Foam strips for hinged doors and windows. Self-adhesive foam that you cut to length and stick to the frame. TidyMend sells a wedge-profile foam window and door seal strip (5 m roll) and EVA foam weatherstripping tape (5 m × 30 mm × 3 mm).
• Foam for sliding windows. The self-adhesive foam seal for sliding windows (10 m, white) sticks along the frame or sash and compresses when the window is shut.
• Pile brush strips for sliding doors and windows. Brush seals let the panel slide past while filling the gap. Options include the wool pile weatherstrip (9 × 23 mm × 5 m), the brush weatherstrip for aluminium sliding doors (10 m, 5 × 8 mm) and sliding-door track seal blocks for the open end of a track.

See them all in Window & Door Weatherstripping.

Before you start: check the gap

Close the door on a sheet of paper at several points along the sides and top. If the paper slides out easily, there is a gap there. Look at the gap size too: a thin strip suits a small, even gap, while a deeper strip or a brush seal suits a wider gap. If the strip is too thick, the door may be hard to close.

Step-by-step: weather stripping a hinged door

1. Remove old strips. Pull off any worn weather stripping and scrape away old adhesive.
2. Clean and dry the frame. Wipe the doorstop with a damp cloth and let it dry fully. Self-adhesive strips stick best to a clean, dry, smooth surface.
3. Measure. Measure the top of the frame and each side, from the top corner down to the floor or threshold.
4. Cut the strips. Cut one piece for the top and one for each side with sharp scissors. Cut each piece slightly long; you can trim it once it is in place.
5. Fit the top first. Peel back a short length of backing, line the strip up along the doorstop where the face of the door touches it, and press it on as you peel. Keep it straight and do not stretch it.
6. Fit the sides. Start each side strip at the top so it butts up neatly against the top piece, then work down. On the hinge side, fit the strip to the doorstop in the same way.
7. Press firmly. Run your thumb along every strip to bed the adhesive down.
8. Test the door. Close and open the door several times. It should latch without forcing. If it is very stiff, the strip may be too thick for that gap.

Step-by-step: weather stripping windows

1. Hinged (casement) windows: clean the frame where the window closes, cut a foam strip to each side and stick it to the frame so the window presses onto it when shut.
2. Sliding windows and doors: clean the frame or track. Stick the foam seal along the frame or sash, or fit a pile brush strip where the panel meets the frame. Check that the window or door still slides freely.
3. Track ends: fit a track seal block at the open end of a sliding track to close that gap.

For extra help in winter, clear window insulation film adds a layer over the window glass, and a window sill rain diverter helps guide rainwater away from a sill.

Tips

• Fit strips in dry weather and at room temperature where you can, so the adhesive sticks to a dry surface.
• Do not stretch foam as you apply it; stretched foam can shrink back and leave gaps at the ends.
• Butt the corners together neatly so there is no gap where two strips meet.
• Check strips from time to time and replace any that are flattened, torn or peeling.
• Some adhesives may mark painted frames when removed, which is worth bearing in mind in a rented home.

More options in the shop: the Alien Draft Seal clear silicone weatherstrip, 49 ft (ships to the United States only) and the Litaibai kerf door weatherstrip, 40 ft (ships to the United States only).

Frequently asked questions

Where exactly does weather stripping go on a door?

On the doorstop, the raised strip of frame that the door closes against, along the top and both sides. The face of the closed door should press onto the strip.

What is the difference between weather stripping and a draught excluder?

Weather stripping usually means strips fitted around the frame. A draught excluder usually means a seal or tube at the bottom of the door. Many doors need both: strips for the frame and a door bottom seal for the gap underneath.

Foam or brush: which should I choose?

Foam suits hinged doors and windows that close against the frame. Brush (pile) strips suit sliding doors and windows, where the panel moves along the seal.

My door will not close after fitting the strip. What now?

The strip is probably too thick for the gap. Remove it from the side that binds and fit a thinner strip there.

Can I weather strip a uPVC or aluminium frame?

Self-adhesive strips can be fitted to most clean, smooth frames. For aluminium sliding doors and windows, a pile brush weatherstrip that fits the track is the usual choice. Check the profile size against your track before you buy.

Related guides

How to stop drafts under a door · How to install window insulation film · All TidyMend guides

Quick answer: to organise the cabinet under your kitchen sink, take everything out, clean and dry the cabinet, and throw away anything empty or unused. Then measure the space around the pipes, add a shelf liner, use a two-tier pull-out organiser to make use of the height, and put the things you use every day at the front. Hooks on the inside of the door are handy for gloves and cloths.

Why the space under the sink gets messy

The cabinet under a kitchen sink is an awkward shape. The waste pipe and the water supply pipes take up the middle, the space is often deep and dark, and bottles get pushed to the back and forgotten. The aim is to keep everything visible, easy to reach and clear of the pipes.

Step-by-step: how to organize under the kitchen sink

1. Empty the cabinet. Take everything out and put it on the counter or floor so you can see what you have.
2. Check the cabinet. With the cabinet empty, look at the pipes and the cabinet floor for drips, damp patches or swelling. If you find a leak, fix it, or get it fixed, before you put anything back.
3. Clean and dry. Wipe the base and sides of the cabinet and leave the door open so it dries completely.
4. Sort and declutter. Group what you have: dishwasher and washing-up products, surface cleaners, cloths and sponges, bin bags, and spares. Throw away empty bottles, dried-out sponges and anything you no longer use.
5. Measure the space. Measure the width, depth and height of the cabinet, and note where the pipes run. Check the size of the door opening too, as it is often smaller than the inside of the cabinet.
6. Line the base. A liner makes the cabinet floor easier to wipe. A clear drawer and shelf liner roll is non-adhesive and wipe-clean, and a non-slip EVA shelf liner helps stop bottles sliding. Cut either to fit around the pipes with scissors.
7. Add an organiser. A two-tier pull-out under sink organizer uses the height of the cabinet and slides out, so you can reach items at the back of both shelves. Place it to one side of the pipes, or use two if there is room on both sides.
8. Use the door. Stick adhesive hooks to the inside of the cabinet door for rubber gloves, cloths or a small brush. Check that the hooks and anything on them clear the pipes and the organiser when the door closes.
9. Put things back by use. Put everyday items, such as washing-up liquid and dishwasher tablets, at the front or on the top tier. Store spares and things you use less often at the back or the bottom.
10. Keep a gap around the pipes. Leave the pipes and any shut-off valves easy to see and reach, so you can spot a drip or turn off the water quickly if you need to.

Ideas that make the space work harder

• Group small items. Keep sponges, scrubbers and spare cloths together in one shallow box or tray so they do not spread across the cabinet.
• Keep bin bags in one place. A roll of bin bags fits neatly at the side of an organiser or in a small box.
• Label the shelves. Simple labels help everyone in the house put things back in the same place.
• Do a quick check every few months. Throw away empties, wipe the liner and look at the pipes again.
• Keep heavy items low. Put larger bottles and refills on the cabinet floor or the bottom tier, where they are easier to lift out, and keep lighter items on top.
• Leave room for a bin if you use one. If your kitchen bin lives under the sink, measure it first and plan the organiser around it.

The same steps work for the cabinet under a bathroom sink, where a pull-out organiser can hold toiletries, spare toilet rolls and cleaning products. See more under-sink organizers, such as the sliding under-sink storage rack with a pull-out lower basket, see Kitchen Organization for more kitchen storage (such as stick-on pot lid holders for the inside of a cabinet door, cabinet shelf risers for spices and a heavy-duty rotating turntable for pantry jars or a clear plastic lazy susan turntable (23.6 cm or 27 cm, single layer) for a cabinet, counter or fridge shelf), or browse all drawer and cabinet organization.

More options in the shop: the DEKAVA 2-tier sliding under-sink organizer, 2 pack, the REALINN L-shaped pull-out under-sink organizer (ships to the United States only) and the Simple Houseware expandable under-sink shelf (ships to the United States only).

Frequently asked questions

What should be stored under the kitchen sink?

Most people keep everyday cleaning products, dishwasher and washing-up products, cloths, sponges and bin bags there. Keep the space around the pipes clear, and follow the storage instructions on each product label.

How do I organise around the sink pipes?

Measure the space on each side of the pipes and choose organisers that fit there, rather than one large unit. Cut liners around the pipes, and use the door for hooks so the middle stays clear.

Is it organize or organise?

Both are correct. “Organize” and “organizer” are the US spellings, and “organise” and “organiser” are common in the UK.

How do I stop the cabinet base getting damaged by drips?

Line the base with a wipe-clean liner, wipe up spills straight away, and check the pipes for leaks from time to time. If a pipe is dripping, fix the leak first. For a small drip, self-fusing silicone repair tape can be wrapped around the pipe as a temporary repair until a permanent one is made; see how to fix a leaking pipe with repair tape.

Will a pull-out organiser fit my cabinet?

Measure the width, depth and height of the space next to the pipes, and the door opening, and compare them with the organiser before you buy.

Related guides

What is nano tape and how to use it · How to use caulk tape · How to use adhesive hooks · How to childproof your home · How to organize drawers with drawer dividers · How to fix a cabinet door that won’t close · How to organize kitchen cabinets · All TidyMend guides

Quick answer: to stop a draft (or draught, in the UK) coming under a door, measure the gap between the bottom of the door and the floor, then fit a door bottom seal, sometimes called a door sweep, that covers it. Self-adhesive silicone seals stick to the bottom edge of the door with no screws or tools. Then check the sides and top of the door, and seal any gaps there with weatherstripping.

Find where the draft is coming from

Before you buy anything, find the gaps. On a windy day, close the door and hold the back of your hand near the bottom edge, then along the sides and top. You will often feel moving air. At night, with a light on outside the door, look for light showing around the edges. A gap under the door is the most common place, but worn seals around the frame can let in air too.

Measure the gap at the bottom at both ends and in the middle, as floors and doors are not always level. This tells you how deep a seal you need.

Options for sealing the gap under a door

• Self-adhesive door bottom seal. A strip with a flexible fin that sticks along the bottom of the door and brushes the floor. Good for renters and for doors where you would rather not drill. TidyMend sells a self-adhesive silicone door bottom seal (2 × 39 in), a 45 mm × 5 m brown silicone strip for several doors, and a transparent 25 mm × 1 m strip that blends in.
• Draught excluder or draft stopper. A fabric tube that lies on the floor against the door. It is easy to move, but it has to be put back each time the door is opened.
• Screw-on door sweep or threshold strip. A brush or rubber strip fixed with screws. This is a more permanent option that needs tools.

You can see the self-adhesive options in Door Seals & Draft Stoppers.

Step-by-step: fitting a self-adhesive door bottom seal

1. Measure the door. Measure the width of the door along the bottom edge.
2. Clean the door. Wipe the bottom of the door on the side where you will fit the seal, usually the inside face, and let it dry. Adhesive strips stick best to a clean, dry and smooth surface.
3. Cut to length. Cut the strip to the width of the door with sharp scissors. Cut a little long at first; you can always trim more.
4. Position the strip. Hold it against the door so the fin just touches the floor when the door is closed. Too low and the door may drag; too high and the gap stays open.
5. Stick it on. Peel back a short length of the backing, line up one end, and press it on. Keep peeling and pressing along the length of the door so the strip stays straight.
6. Press firmly. Run your hand along the whole strip a few times.
7. Test the door. Open and close the door several times. It should move freely over the floor, rugs and any threshold, and the fin should touch the floor along the full width.

Don’t forget the rest of the door frame

If you can still feel air at the sides or top, fit weatherstripping to the frame. Foam strips such as wedge-profile foam seal strip or EVA foam weatherstripping tape stick to the frame where the door closes against it. For sliding doors, a pile brush seal such as the wool pile weatherstrip or a brush weatherstrip for aluminium sliding doors is the usual choice. Clean the frame first, apply the strip where the door meets the frame, and check the door still closes and latches easily. Browse all window and door weatherstripping.

For step-by-step help fitting strips around the frame of a door or window, see how to install weather stripping on a door (and windows).

Tips

• Fit seals in dry weather and at room temperature where possible, as adhesive sticks better to a dry surface.
• If the floor is uneven, choose a seal with a softer, deeper fin so it can follow the floor.
• For internal doors between rooms, a seal can also cut down light and dust coming under the door.
• For windows in cold weather, clear window insulation film adds an extra layer over a window in cold weather; see how to install window insulation film.

More options in the shop: the Vellure silicone door draft stopper, 39 in, the Holikme 36 in under-door draft blocker (ships to the United States only) and the EXTSUD silicone door draught excluder, 100 cm (ships to the United Kingdom only).

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between a draft and a draught?

Nothing except spelling. “Draft” is the US spelling and “draught” is the UK spelling. Draught-proofing and weatherproofing a door mean the same job.

Will a door bottom seal stop the door from closing?

It should not if it is fitted at the right height. Position the strip so the fin just touches the floor, then test the door before you press the whole strip on firmly.

Can I fit a draft stopper to a rented home?

Self-adhesive seals need no screws or drilling, which makes them a popular choice for renters. Check your tenancy agreement, and note that some adhesives may mark painted doors when removed.

Related guides

How to install weather stripping on a door · How to install window insulation film · Draft & Weather Sealing · All TidyMend guides

Which side of the door should the seal go on?

Usually on the inside face of the door, so the seal is protected from the weather. Make sure it does not catch on a threshold or doormat when the door swings.

How do I seal a gap at the top or sides of a door?

Use self-adhesive weatherstripping on the door frame where the door closes against it. Foam strips suit hinged doors; pile brush seals suit sliding doors.

Quick answer: for a small hole or tear in a window screen (often called a fly screen or insect screen in the UK), clean the mesh around the damage, cut a piece of self-adhesive screen repair tape or a patch so it overlaps the hole on every side, peel off the backing and press it firmly onto the mesh. For a screen with a lot of damage, or a mesh that is brittle all over, it is usually easier to fit a new screen.

What you need

• Self-adhesive screen repair tape or ready-cut patches in a colour close to your mesh (black, grey or white)
• Sharp scissors
• A soft brush or a damp cloth, and a dry cloth
• Optional: a ruler or tape measure to size the patch

Self-adhesive screen repair tape and ready-cut patches usually come in colours close to typical mesh (black, grey or white). TidyMend’s self-adhesive window screen repair tape is a 5 cm × 2 m roll in black, grey or white, and you can cut the roll into more than one patch. Browse all Window & Door Screens at TidyMend.

Step-by-step: how to patch a window screen

1. Look at the damage. Check the size of the hole or tear and whether the mesh around it is still in good condition. Small holes, slits and pet scratches are ideal for a patch. If the mesh tears easily when you press it, or there are many holes, see “When to replace the screen” below.
2. Clean the area. Brush off dust and cobwebs, wipe the mesh with a damp cloth and let it dry completely. Adhesive patches stick best to clean, dry mesh.
3. Flatten the mesh. Gently push any loose or bent strands back into line with your fingers so the hole is as flat and small as possible. Snip off any strands that stick out.
4. Cut the patch. Cut a piece of repair tape, or choose a ready-cut patch, that is larger than the hole on every side, so the adhesive has plenty of good mesh to grip. Rounding the corners with scissors helps stop the edges lifting.
5. Apply the patch. Peel off the backing, centre the patch over the hole and press it on. Start in the middle and smooth outwards to the edges. If you can reach both sides of the screen, support the mesh from behind with your other hand while you press.
6. Press the edges. Run your fingers around the edge of the patch a few times so it is firmly stuck down all the way round.
7. Check from both sides. Look at the repair from inside and outside. If light shows through at an edge, press it again, or add a second, slightly larger patch.

Tips for a neater repair

• Match the colour of the patch to your mesh. Black or grey is usually less noticeable on dark mesh; white suits white or light mesh.
• For a long slit, use a strip of repair tape along the full length rather than several small patches.
• Patch on the side of the screen that you see least, if you can reach it, so the repair is less visible from the room.
• Keep the offcuts. A roll or kit usually covers several repairs, which is useful if a pet or a stray ball makes a new hole later.
• Do the repair on a dry day, as damp mesh is harder to patch.

Fixing holes in screen doors and mosquito nets

The same method works on screen doors, mosquito nets and similar mesh. On a door that gets a lot of use, check the patch now and then and press down any edge that starts to lift. On a hanging net, lay the damaged area over a flat, firm surface, such as a book, before you press the patch on.

When to replace the screen instead

A patch is a good fix for small, local damage. If the mesh is torn in many places, has come away from the frame, or has become brittle all over, a replacement is often the better option. For windows, you can fit a stick-on window insect screen or a hook-and-loop window screen mesh that attaches to the frame with no drilling. For a step-by-step walk-through, see how to fit a stick-on window insect screen. For doorways, see how to install a magnetic screen door. Always measure the frame first.

Frequently asked questions

Can I fix a window screen without removing it?

Yes. Self-adhesive patches and tape can be applied with the screen in place, as long as you can reach the hole and the mesh is clean and dry. Removing the screen can make it easier to support the mesh from behind.

How big should the patch be?

Larger than the hole on every side, so the adhesive sticks to undamaged mesh all the way around. For long slits, use a strip of tape that runs past both ends of the tear.

Will the patch be visible?

Any patch will show a little, but choosing a colour close to your mesh and cutting neat, rounded edges makes it much less noticeable.

Can I use ordinary tape?

Ordinary clear or masking tape blocks the mesh and tends to peel off. Screen repair tape and patches are made of mesh themselves, so air and light still pass through the repaired area.

What is the difference between a window screen and a fly screen?

They are the same thing. “Window screen” is more common in the US, while “fly screen” or “insect screen” is more common in the UK.

Related

Browse all Window & Door Screens, or see window screens and nets for a replacement screen. For screen tools, see Screen Tools & Accessories, such as the double-ended screen spline roller for pressing spline and new mesh into a frame when you re-screen it, or browse all TidyMend guides.