Author: TidyMend Team

Quick answer: to use adhesive hooks, pick a smooth, clean surface such as tile, glass, metal or a smooth wall, wipe it clean and let it dry, peel the backing and press the hook on firmly, then wait before you hang anything: several hours for TidyMend’s clear and stainless steel hooks, and 24 hours for the adhesive screw hooks. Keep to light items. Adhesive hooks are a no-drill way to hang towels, keys, kitchen tools and light seasonal decorations without making new holes in the wall.

Which adhesive hook do you need?

TidyMend sells four kinds of stick-on hook, all in Adhesive Hooks & Mounts:

• Clear hooks for tile, glass and metal: clear adhesive wall hooks (5-pack). A clear adhesive base that blends in on smooth, non-porous surfaces. Not for textured or freshly painted walls.
• Steel hooks for kitchens and bathrooms: stainless steel adhesive hooks (10-pack). A clear adhesive pad with a stainless steel hook, for tea towels, kitchen tools, bath towels, keys and bags on tile, glass and metal. Not for textured walls or wallpaper.
• J-hooks for light everyday items: self-adhesive J-hooks (6-pack). J-shaped hooks for keys, towels and umbrellas on a clean, smooth wall or door. They are meant for light items, not heavy coats or bags.
• Screw-post pads for frames and small racks: no-drill adhesive screw hooks (10-pack). Clear pads about 6 × 4 cm, each with a 10 mm screw post, for pictures, small racks and light bathroom shelves on smooth surfaces.

What you need

• Adhesive hooks suited to the item and the surface
• A cleaner suitable for the surface, and a dry cloth
• A pencil or a small piece of masking tape to mark the spot
• Time for the adhesive to set before you hang anything

Step-by-step: how to put up an adhesive hook

1. Check the surface. These hooks are for smooth surfaces. Tile, glass and metal suit the clear and stainless steel hooks; avoid textured walls, wallpaper and freshly painted walls.
2. Plan the position. Decide where each hook will go before you peel the backing, and mark the spot. Hold the item up to check it hangs where you want it.
3. Clean and dry the spot. Wipe away dust, grease and soap residue, then let the surface dry completely.
4. Peel and press. Peel off the backing and press the hook on firmly, pressing over the whole pad.
5. Let the adhesive set. Wait several hours for the clear and stainless steel hooks, and 24 hours for the adhesive screw hooks, before hanging anything. For the J-hooks, let the adhesive set before use.
6. Hang light items only. Hang the item gently. If a hook starts to lean or lift, take the item off.

Hanging holiday decorations without nails

Adhesive hooks are a handy way to put up light seasonal decorations for the winter holidays without new nail holes. A few tips:

• Fit hooks a day ahead so the adhesive has time to set before you hang decorations.
• Use clear hooks on glass, tile or a smooth door where you want the hook to blend in.
• Keep to light decorations; heavier pieces are better hung from screws and wall plugs.
• For a picture or small frame with a hanging hole, the adhesive screw hooks give you a 10 mm post to hang it on.

If you do take down nails and hooks after the holidays, see how to fill nail holes in a wall.

Adhesive hooks or nano tape?

Hooks are made for hanging things. For small, light items that sit flat against a surface, or to stop something from sliding, reusable double-sided nano mounting tape can be cut to length instead. See what nano tape is and how to use it.

Tips

• Use more hooks rather than overloading one.
• Some adhesives can mark paint when removed, so think about placement on painted walls and in rented homes.
• In kitchens and bathrooms, put hooks up when the surface is dry, not straight after a shower or washing up.
• Heavy items such as shelves, mirrors or TVs need screws and wall plugs, not adhesive hooks.

More options in the shop: the Command large utility hooks, 7 pack, the Command medium designer hooks, 2 pack (ships to the United States only) and the GLUIT large clear adhesive wall hooks, 12 pack (ships to the United States only).

Frequently asked questions

How long should I wait before hanging something on an adhesive hook?

For TidyMend’s clear adhesive wall hooks and stainless steel adhesive hooks, wait several hours. For the no-drill adhesive screw hooks, let the adhesive set for 24 hours.

Do adhesive hooks work on textured walls or wallpaper?

No. These hooks are for smooth surfaces such as tile, glass, metal or a smooth wall. The clear hooks are also not for freshly painted walls.

Can I hang a coat on an adhesive hook?

The self-adhesive J-hooks are meant for light items such as keys, towels and umbrellas, not heavy coats or bags. Keep to light items with all adhesive hooks.

Can I use adhesive hooks in the bathroom?

Yes, on clean, dry tile or glass. The stainless steel and clear hooks are suggested for bath towels and bathroom tiles where you do not want to drill.

Can I hang a picture frame without drilling?

For a light frame with a hanging hole, the no-drill adhesive screw hooks have a 10 mm screw post on a clear pad. Stick the pad to a smooth wall and wait 24 hours before hanging the frame.

Related guides

What is nano tape and how to use it · How to fill nail holes in a wall · How to organize under the kitchen sink · All TidyMend guides

Quick answer: to fill a nail hole or small crack in an interior wall, clean the area, press a ready-to-use wall filler (wall repair paste or putty) into the hole with a scraper so it sits flush with the wall, and let it dry fully. Sand it smooth if needed, then paint over the patch on a coloured wall. For a crack, a self-adhesive mesh tape under the filler helps reinforce the repair. It is a quick job after taking down pictures or holiday decorations, or before you move out of a rented home.

What is wall filler?

Wall filler is a paste or putty used to fill nail and screw holes, small cracks and dents in interior walls before painting. In the US it is often called spackle or wall repair putty; in the UK it is usually called wall filler. Ready-to-use fillers need no mixing.

TidyMend sells two ready-to-use options for small interior wall repairs:

• Wall repair paste with scraper: one tube of white repair paste and one scraper, for nail holes, small cracks and marks on painted interior walls.
• White wall putty repair kit: one tub of ready-to-use white putty, one scraper and one sandpaper, for holes, peeling spots and small cracks on interior walls.

For cracks and joints, the self-adhesive fiberglass mesh drywall tape (4.5 cm × 30 m) reinforces the area before you fill. See all Wall Patch & Putty.

What you need

• Ready-to-use wall filler, paste or putty
• A scraper or filling knife (included in both kits above)
• Fine sandpaper (included in the putty kit)
• A dry cloth or soft brush
• Optional: self-adhesive mesh tape for cracks, and paint to match the wall

Step-by-step: how to fill a nail hole

1. Remove the nail or hook. Pull out the nail or screw, and remove any loose plaster or paint flakes around the hole.
2. Clean the area. Brush or wipe away dust so the filler can stick to the wall.
3. Apply the filler. Squeeze or scoop a little filler onto the scraper and press it into the hole.
4. Smooth it flush. Draw the scraper across the hole so the filler sits flush with the wall, and scrape away the excess.
5. Let it dry fully. Leave the filler to dry before you sand or paint. For a deeper hole, fill in thin layers and let each one dry before adding the next.
6. Sand smooth. Lightly sand the patch so it is level with the surrounding wall, then wipe off the dust.
7. Paint if needed. On a coloured wall, paint over the patch once it is fully dry so it matches.

Step-by-step: how to fill a small crack

1. Clean the crack. Remove loose material and dust from the crack.
2. Add mesh tape. Cut a length of self-adhesive mesh tape and press it over the crack so it lies flat.
3. Cover with filler. Spread a thin layer of filler or joint compound over the tape with the scraper.
4. Dry, sand and paint. Once the filler is dry, sand it smooth and paint.

After the holidays: hanging without new holes

If you are filling holes after taking down pictures or seasonal decorations, you may want fewer new holes next time. Self-adhesive options such as adhesive hooks and mounts or nano mounting tape stick to smooth surfaces instead; see what nano tape is and how to use it. Check the limits on each product before you hang anything, and note that some adhesives can mark paint when removed.

Tips for an invisible repair

• Use a little filler at a time; it is easier to add more than to sand away a large lump.
• Fill deep holes in thin layers, letting each layer dry first.
• Hold a torch at an angle to the wall to spot any patch that is not yet level.
• On coloured walls, plan to paint over the repair once it is dry.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between wall filler, spackle and putty?

They are names for the same kind of job: a paste or putty that fills small holes and cracks in interior walls before painting. “Wall filler” is the common UK term; “spackle” and “wall putty” are common in the US.

Do I need to mix the filler?

Not with the TidyMend wall repair paste or the white wall putty kit; both are ready to use, with no mixing needed.

Can I paint straight over wall filler?

Let the filler dry fully and sand it smooth first, then paint.

How do I fill a deeper hole?

Fill it in thin layers and let each one dry before you add the next or sand.

Can I use these on outside walls or ceilings?

The wall repair paste and putty kit are described for interior walls. The mesh drywall tape is for drywall, plaster and ceiling cracks before filling and painting.

Related guides

What is nano tape and how to use it · How to use caulk tape · How to use adhesive hooks · All TidyMend guides

Quick answer: to use caulk tape, pull off any loose old caulk, clean the joint and let it dry completely, then cut the tape to length, peel off the backing and press it along the joint where the bath, sink or counter meets the wall. Run your finger firmly along the whole strip, especially at the ends and corners. Caulk tape is a quick cover-up for tired or stained caulk lines with no caulk gun needed; if you would rather re-caulk, a nozzle and smoothing tool help you lay a neat bead.

What is caulk tape?

Caulk tape (also sold as peel-and-stick caulk strip or sealant tape) is a flexible self-adhesive strip that covers the joint between a bath, shower tray, sink or worktop and the wall. Instead of squeezing out wet sealant, you stick the strip over the joint. It is a popular quick refresh when old caulk looks worn, stained or cracked, for example before guests come to stay over the holidays.

TidyMend sells a peel-and-stick caulk tape (3.2 m, white): a white PVC strip with a self-adhesive backing, 3.2 m × 2.2 cm (about 10.5 ft × 0.87 in). See all Caulk & Sealing Tape.

What you need

• Caulk tape long enough for the joint (measure first)
• Sharp scissors
• A plastic scraper or similar to lift loose old caulk
• A cleaner suitable for your surfaces, and a dry cloth
• Time for the joint to dry fully before you start

Step-by-step: how to apply caulk tape

1. Measure the joint. Measure each straight run where the bath, sink or counter meets the wall, so you know how much tape you need. Our roll is 3.2 m long.
2. Remove loose old caulk. Lift off any caulk that is peeling, crumbling or coming away. The tape needs a firm surface to stick to.
3. Clean the area. Wipe the joint and the surfaces on both sides to remove soap residue, grease and dust.
4. Let it dry completely. Self-adhesive tape sticks best to a clean, fully dry surface. In a bathroom, open a window or run the fan and leave the area unused for a while.
5. Cut the tape to length. Cut one piece for each straight run. Working in shorter lengths is easier than trying to turn a corner with one long strip.
6. Peel and press. Peel back a short length of backing, line the strip up along the joint and press it on, peeling and pressing as you go so it stays straight.
7. Press the whole length firmly. Run your finger along the strip a few times so the adhesive sits flat, especially at the ends and in the corners.
8. Leave it dry. Keep the area as dry as you can for a while after fitting, so the tape stays firmly stuck.

Caulk tape or re-caulking?

Caulk tape covers a joint; re-caulking replaces the sealant. If you prefer to re-caulk with a tube of silicone or acrylic sealant, tools help you get a neat line:

• The caulking finishing tool kit has 3 caulk nozzles, 1 scraper tool and 1 smoothing tool, for silicone, acrylic and other sealants. It is reusable; wipe the tools clean after use.
• The silicone caulk nozzle 3-pack slides onto a standard caulk tube so you can lay down and smooth a bead in one step.

Other bathroom and kitchen sealing fixes

• Stained grout lines: self-adhesive tile gap tape (6 m, white) covers stained grout and small gaps along tiles, counters and sinks, or refresh the colour with a grout pen (see how to use a grout pen).
• Water escaping from a walk-in shower: a silicone shower threshold water-stop strip is a bendable self-adhesive strip for a shower threshold or bathroom floor edge.
• Leaks under or between glass shower doors: shower glass door seal strips slide onto glass 4–6 mm thick.
• Chips in a tub, sink or tile: a two-part tile repair paste kit.

Tips for a neat result

• Work in good light so you can keep the strip straight along the joint.
• Do not stretch the tape as you apply it; press it on as it comes off the roll.
• Cut the ends square and neat at corners so they sit flat.
• If a section lifts, check that the surface underneath was fully dry and free of old caulk.

More options in the shop: the Fixmend clear caulk tape, 3 rolls (ships to the United States only) and the Mokani white caulk tape, 2 rolls (ships to the United States only).

Frequently asked questions

Can I put caulk tape over old caulk?

Remove any loose, peeling or crumbling caulk first and let the joint dry fully. The tape needs a clean, dry, firm surface to stick to.

Where can I use caulk tape?

Along the joint where a bathtub, shower, sink or countertop meets the wall, including a countertop joint along a backsplash.

Do I need a caulk gun?

No. Caulk tape is self-adhesive, so you peel off the backing and press it on. You only need a caulk gun if you are re-caulking with a tube of sealant.

What size is TidyMend’s caulk tape?

3.2 m × 2.2 cm (about 10.5 ft × 0.87 in), white PVC with a self-adhesive backing.

Is caulk tape the same as tile gap tape?

They are similar self-adhesive strips for different joints. Caulk tape covers the joint where a sink, tub or counter meets the wall; tile gap tape covers stained grout lines and small gaps along tiles.

Related guides

How to use a grout pen · How to fill nail holes in a wall · How to replace toilet seat bumpers · All TidyMend guides

Quick answer: to install window insulation film, clean and dry the window frame, stick the tape around the frame, then press the clear film onto the tape so it covers the glass and sits smooth and even. Trim any excess film, and seal draughty gaps around the frame with weatherstripping. The film adds a clear layer over the window for the colder months without blocking the view.

What is window insulation film?

Window insulation film is a thin, clear plastic sheet that is fixed to the window frame with tape, so it sits over the glass. It is a simple, no-drill winter fix for single windows and older frames, and it can be removed when the weather warms up.

TidyMend sells a winter window insulation film (70 × 180 cm): a clear film of about 27.6 × 70.9 in with a tape strip in the packaged set. See all window insulation film or the full Draft & Weather Sealing range.

What you need

• Window insulation film large enough to cover the frame, with tape
• A tape measure
• Sharp scissors or a craft knife
• A cleaner suitable for your frame, and a dry cloth
• Optional: weatherstripping for gaps around opening windows

Step-by-step: how to install window insulation film

1. Measure the window. Measure the width and height of the frame you will stick the tape to. Check that the film is big enough to cover it with a little spare at each edge. Our film is 70 cm high × 180 cm wide, so compare that with your window before you start.
2. Clean the frame. Wipe the frame where the tape will go to remove dust and grease, then let it dry completely. Tape sticks best to a clean, dry surface.
3. Apply the tape. Stick the tape around the frame in one continuous border, pressing it down firmly along its length. Do not remove the top backing until you are ready to fit the film.
4. Cut the film to size. Cut the film so it overlaps the tape on every side.
5. Fix the top edge first. Peel the backing from the top strip of tape and press the top edge of the film onto it, keeping the film level.
6. Work down the sides and bottom. Peel the rest of the backing a little at a time and press the film onto the tape, smoothing it outwards so it sits evenly over the glass.
7. Trim the excess. Trim any film that hangs past the tape for a neat edge.
8. Check the edges. Run your finger along the tape to make sure the film is stuck all the way round, with no open gaps.

Some window film kits are designed to be tightened with a hair dryer after fitting. Only do this if the instructions that come with your film say so.

Seal the gaps around the window too

Film covers the glass, but cold air also gets in through gaps around opening sashes and frames. For a fuller winter fix, use it together with draught-proofing:

• Gaps around opening windows and doors: foam weatherstripping such as the wedge-profile foam window and door seal strip or EVA foam weatherstripping tape.
• Sliding windows: a self-adhesive foam seal for sliding windows.

For step-by-step help with strips, see how to install weather stripping on a door (and windows). For the gap under a door, see how to stop drafts under a door.

Tips for a neat result

• Fit the film on a dry day, when the frame is not damp with condensation.
• Press the tape down firmly before you add the film; most loose edges start with tape that was not fully stuck.
• Test the tape on a small, hidden part of the frame first if you are worried about paint or a delicate finish.
• Remember that a window covered with film cannot be opened until the film is removed.

More options in the shop: the Duck MAX Strength window insulation kit, 5 windows, the Frost King V76H patio door shrink kit (ships to the United States only) and the Duck window insulation kit, 10 windows (ships to the United States only).

Frequently asked questions

What does window insulation film do?

It adds a clear layer over the window for the colder months. The film is fixed to the frame with tape so it sits over the glass, and you can still see through it.

Does window insulation film block the view?

No. The film is clear, so it adds a layer over the window without changing the view.

What size is TidyMend’s window insulation film?

It comes in one size: 70 cm height × 180 cm width (about 27.6 × 70.9 in), with a tape strip in the packaged set.

Can I still open the window after fitting the film?

Not while the film is in place, because it is stuck across the frame. Choose windows you do not need to open during the colder months.

Should I use film or weatherstripping?

They do different jobs. Film covers the glass; weatherstripping closes gaps around frames, sashes and doors. Many homes use both.

Looking for privacy rather than insulation? The static cling privacy window film is a frosted, no-glue film for bathroom windows, glass doors and side panels that clings to clean glass with water and lets light through. See more window privacy film.

Related guides

How to install weather stripping on a door · How to stop drafts under a door · How to fix a leaking pipe with repair tape · How to apply privacy window film · All TidyMend guides

Quick answer: furniture sliders are pads or glides that go under furniture legs so you can move chairs, tables, sofas and cabinets more easily, with less risk of scratching the floor. Clean the bottom of each leg, fit a self-adhesive slider or a thicker stick-on pad, and then slide the furniture rather than lifting or dragging it on bare feet. Choose a size and shape that matches the leg, and use a type suited to your floor.

Sliders, felt pads and leg caps

Several products do a related job, and it helps to pick the right one:

• PTFE furniture sliders. Thin, smooth glides with a self-adhesive back. The PTFE face is meant to slide over tile, wood and carpet. TidyMend sells PTFE furniture sliders in a 20-pack of 20 mm squares, which can fit up to 20 legs.
• Thicker stick-on slider pads. Larger, thicker pads for heavier pieces such as sofas, tables and cabinets. The round furniture slider pads are a 4-pack, 54 mm across, for wood, tile and laminate floors — typically one pad per leg on a four-legged piece.
• Felt pads. Self-adhesive felt that sits under feet to reduce scuffs on hard floors. A 180-pack of mixed round and square felt pads covers many chairs and tables; a cut-to-size 5 mm grey felt sheet is useful for unusual leg shapes.
• Chair leg caps. Stretch-on silicone caps that go over the ends of round legs of a matching size (the ones we sell are about 3 cm tall with a 4 cm opening). They keep the bare leg off the floor rather than acting as a slim glide.

You can see them all in Floor & Furniture Protectors.

Step-by-step: fitting self-adhesive sliders or pads

1. Empty or lighten the furniture if it is heavy, so you can safely tip or lift each leg a short way. Get help with large pieces.
2. Clean the bottom of each leg and let it dry. Dust, old felt or uneven residue will stop a new pad sticking well.
3. Check the size. A 20 mm square slider suits many chair and table legs; a 54 mm round pad suits a larger foot. For an odd shape, trace the leg on a cut-to-size felt sheet and cut the pad to match.
4. Peel and press. Peel off the backing and press the pad onto the leg, with the glide face or felt facing the floor. Hold it firmly for a few seconds.
5. Repeat on every leg, then set the furniture down and try a short slide. If a pad shifts, remove it, clean again and refit it.

Step-by-step: fitting stretch-on chair leg caps

1. Check the opening against your leg diameter. The caps described above have an opening of about 4 cm and are for round legs of a matching size.
2. Stretch a cap over the end of each leg so it sits flush. The 20-pack can cover five four-legged chairs, or a mix of chairs, stools and a small table.

Tips

• Fit sliders or pads to every leg of a piece, so it does not sit crooked or dig in on one corner.
• On carpet, a smooth PTFE slider is usually easier to move than bare felt; on hard floors, both sliders and felt pads are used, with felt especially helpful for reducing scuffs under chairs that stay put.
• If you move a piece often, check the pads now and then and replace any that have come loose or worn through.
• Sliders make moving easier, but a very heavy piece should still be moved with care, and with enough people to keep it under control.

More options in the shop: the X-Protector 48 round felt pads, 1 in and the Ansible silicone chair leg caps with felt, 24 pack (ships to the United States only).

Frequently asked questions

Do furniture sliders work on every floor?

It depends on the slider and the floor. The PTFE sliders above are described for tile, wood and carpet. The 54 mm round pads are for wood, tile and laminate. Felt pads are typically used on hard floors such as wood, laminate and tile. Always check the product details for the floors listed there.

How are sliders different from felt pads?

Sliders have a smooth face designed to glide, so the furniture is easier to slide. Felt pads are softer and are mainly there to reduce scuffs when furniture sits or moves a little on a hard floor. Many homes use both: sliders on pieces you move often, and felt on chairs and tables that mostly stay in place.

What if my furniture legs are an unusual shape?

A cut-to-size felt sheet lets you trace the leg and cut a pad to match. Ready-cut square or round sliders work best when they cover the whole foot without hanging over the edge.

Do I need to lift the furniture right off the floor?

You only need to raise each leg enough to clean it and press a pad on. For a heavy sofa or cabinet, tilt it slightly or get someone to help rather than dragging it on its side.

Related

To stop toys and dust disappearing under a sofa or bed, an under-couch gap blocker (5 cm high, 3 m long, cut to length) closes the gap to the floor. For step-by-step help, see how to stop toys going under the sofa. To lift a bed, sofa or table for storage underneath, stackable furniture risers add about 2.6 cm per layer.

See all floor and furniture protectors, read how to childproof your home to anchor tall furniture with anti-tip straps, see how to fix scratches on wood furniture with touch-up markers, or browse all TidyMend guides.

Quick answer: a magnetic screen door (often called a fly screen door or insect screen door) is a mesh curtain that hangs in a doorway and closes with magnets down the centre, so you can walk through hands-free and the mesh falls shut behind you. Measure the width and height of the opening, choose a screen that fits (or a made-to-measure one), fit the top and sides to the door frame as the product instructions show, then check that the magnetic edges meet cleanly from top to bottom.

What a magnetic screen door is

Unlike a hinged screen door in a solid frame, a magnetic mesh screen is a soft curtain. The two halves meet in the middle and are held together by magnets, so they part when you walk through and close again on their own. People shop for them as a magnetic screen door, a fly screen door or an insect screen door; the job is the same: keep insects out while letting air through, without needing to open and close a second solid door.

TidyMend’s current white magnetic screen door is a polyester-fiber mesh curtain that closes down the centre with magnets and attaches to the door frame with hook-and-loop fastener. Sizes are 80 × 200 cm, 80 × 210 cm, 90 × 200 cm, 90 × 210 cm, 100 × 200 cm, 100 × 210 cm, 110 × 210 cm, or 110 × 220 cm — choose a width and height that fits your door frame. Browse all Window & Door Screens, including Magnetic Screen Doors.

Before you start: measure the opening

Measure the width and height of the doorway, patio opening or garage opening in more than one place, as frames are not always square. Compare those measurements with the size stated on the product you are buying. If the opening is unusual, look for a made-to-measure or larger screen that can be fitted to that size.

Step-by-step: fitting a magnetic mesh screen door

1. Unpack and check the screen. Lay it out so you can see the top edge, the side fittings and the magnetic centre. Read the instructions that come with the screen, as the exact fixings can differ between a standard door curtain, a made-to-measure screen and a garage screen.
2. Fit the top first. Attach the top of the mesh to the underside or face of the door frame, following the product instructions, so the screen hangs evenly across the width of the opening.
3. Fix the sides. Work down each side of the frame so the mesh is smooth, without large wrinkles, and the two magnetic edges can meet in the middle. Do not pull the mesh so tight that the magnets cannot close, or so loose that they gap.
4. Check the magnets. Walk through and let the screen fall shut. The magnetic edges should meet from top to bottom. If they gape at one point, adjust the side fixing at that height.
5. Test a few times. Walk through with your hands full, and from both directions, to check that the mesh parts and closes on its own.

Patio doors and garage openings

The same idea applies to a patio door and to a garage door opening, but the opening is often wider. Measure carefully and choose a screen made for that size — for example a wider or made-to-measure mesh for a patio, or a garage-sized screen for a garage opening. On a garage, fit the screen to the frame around the opening, not to the moving garage door itself, so the door can still open and close.

Tips

• Fit the screen on a dry, still day if you can, so the mesh is easier to handle.
• Keep the magnetic edges clean; dust or a bent edge can stop them closing fully.
• If you have pets, watch how they use the doorway at first, and check that their claws are not catching the mesh. Small holes can be patched with screen repair tape or patches; see how to fix a hole in a window screen. For a cat or small dog, a lockable pet flap for screen doors fits into a mesh screen door (not solid doors).
• When you want a solid door closed as well, you can still use the original door; the mesh hangs in the same opening and is there for when the solid door is open.

More options in the shop: the AUGO magnetic screen door 38 × 83 in, the Flux Phenom magnetic screen door, 38 × 82 in (ships to the United States only) and the Flux Phenom magnetic fly screen, 90 × 210 cm (ships to the United Kingdom only).

Frequently asked questions

Is a magnetic screen door the same as a fly screen door?

For this kind of product, yes. “Magnetic screen door” is a common name for a hands-free mesh curtain with a magnetic opening. “Fly screen door” or “insect screen door” describes the same job: a mesh in the doorway that lets air in and helps keep insects out.

Do I need to drill?

That depends on the screen you buy and your frame. Follow the fitting method in the product instructions. Some setups use hook-and-loop, tape or other no-drill fixings; others use screws. If you cannot drill, check the listing and instructions before you order.

Will it work on a door that is not a standard size?

A ready-made curtain has a maximum size, which is stated on the listing. If your opening is larger, smaller or an unusual shape, a made-to-measure screen is the usual choice. Always measure first.

Can I use one on a garage door?

Yes, if you choose a screen sized for that opening and fit it to the frame around the opening. Do not attach the mesh to the garage door panel itself.

Related

Browse all Window & Door Screens and Magnetic Screen Doors, see how to fit a stick-on window insect screen, or browse all TidyMend guides.

Quick answer: a door stop (also called a door stopper) keeps a door from swinging into a wall, furniture or another door. Choose a type that suits how you want to use it: a wedge that slides under the door to hold it open; a floor- or wall-mounted stop that the door bumps into; or a stick-on bumper or handle cover that needs no drilling. Place it where the door should stop, fit it on a clean surface (or with the included screws), and test the door slowly the first time.

What a door stop is for

Door stops do two slightly different jobs. Some hold a door open, so it does not slam shut in a draft. Others stop a door at a set point so the handle or the door itself does not mark the wall or hit furniture. Many homes need both, in different doorways.

TidyMend sells several no-drill and screw-mounted options in Wall & Door Protectors, including a rubber door wedge stopper, a 100 mm brass knurled door stop, a 46 mm stainless steel door stop, clear stick-on floor door stops in an 8-pack, and no-drill floor door stops in a 5-pack. A clear silicone door handle bumper covers a lever handle instead of sitting on the floor.

Types of door stop

• Wedge. A rubber (or similar) wedge that slides under the door to hold it open. There is nothing to install, and you can move it from door to door. It will not stop a door from hitting the wall if you forget to put it in place.
• Floor- or wall-mounted stop. A fixed stop, often metal with a rubber tip or bumper, that the door meets at the end of its swing. Brass and stainless steel versions are screw-mounted, so they stay put. They are a good choice when you always want the door to stop at the same point.
• Stick-on or no-drill floor stop. A clear dome or clip-style stop that sticks to the floor or wall, with no drilling. Useful in a rented home, or when you want the stop to blend in. Packs of several let you fit more than one door.
• Handle bumper. A clear silicone cover that slides over a lever handle and cushions it where it would meet the wall. No adhesive or drilling. Check that your handle and lock fit the opening before you buy.
• Edge bumper strips. Long, clear self-adhesive strips that protect a wall, cabinet or fridge door from knocks by a handle. These protect the surface rather than stopping the door on the floor.

Step-by-step: fitting a stick-on or no-drill floor stop

1. Open the door slowly and mark the point where you want it to stop, far enough out that the handle or door will not reach the wall or furniture.
2. Clean the floor or wall at that spot and let it dry. Adhesive stops need a clean, dry surface.
3. Fit the stop as shown in the product photos. For a stick-on dome, peel the backing and press it down firmly. For a clip-style no-drill stop, follow the photos for how it sits on the floor.
4. Test the door. Open it gently the first time so you can check that it meets the stop squarely and does not ride over it.

Step-by-step: fitting a screw-mounted floor or wall stop

1. Choose floor or wall mounting. A floor stop sits in the path of the door; a wall stop sits on the wall at handle height or where the door would hit. Use the position that suits the room and the product you have (some, such as the brass 100 mm and stainless 46 mm stops, can be mounted on the floor or the wall).
2. Mark the holes with the door held at the stopping point, so the rubber tip or bumper will meet the door cleanly.
3. Fix the stop with the included screws or fixings. Check that the rubber tip faces the door.
4. Test the swing and tighten any loose screw.

Tips

• If you only need to hold a door open while you carry things through, a wedge is usually the simplest option.
• In a rented home, prefer wedges, stick-on stops or a handle bumper, so you do not have to drill the floor or wall.
• Clear stops and handle bumpers are less noticeable on many floors and walls than a large metal stop, if that matters in the room.
• A handle bumper only helps if the handle is what hits the wall; if the door edge hits first, use a floor or wall stop instead.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between a door stop and a door stopper?

They are the same thing. “Door stop” and “door stopper” are both common names for a wedge, floor stop, wall stop or bumper that controls how far a door can swing, or holds it open.

Can I fit a door stop without drilling?

Yes. A wedge needs no fitting at all. Stick-on floor stops, no-drill clip-style stops and a silicone handle bumper also need no drilling. Screw-mounted metal stops do need screws.

Should the stop go on the floor or the wall?

Use a floor stop when you want the door to meet something on the floor in its path. Use a wall stop when you want to cushion the wall itself, or when a floor stop would be in the way. A handle bumper sits on the handle, not on the floor or wall.

Will a stick-on stop stay in place?

It holds best on a clean, dry, smooth surface. Give the adhesive time to set before the door is used as normal, and press the stop down firmly when you fit it. If the floor is uneven or dusty, a screw-mounted stop is the more secure option.

Related

See all wall and door protectors, read how to use furniture sliders to protect floors when moving furniture, see how to childproof your home with anti-tip straps and locks, or browse all TidyMend guides.

Quick answer: to hide and organise desk cables, get the power strip off the floor (into an under desk cable tray, a clamp-on mount or a cable box), bundle the cords that run together with a sleeve, spiral wrap or straps, route them along the back or underside of the desk with stick-on ties or clips, and cover any run down a wall or across the floor with a cable raceway or cord cover. Finish by labelling the plugs.

Step 1: Plan your setup

Unplug everything and lay out what you have: computer, monitor, lamp, chargers, speakers and so on. Decide where the power strip will live and which cables need to reach the desktop. Cables that never move can be hidden; charging cables you use every day should stay within easy reach.

Step 2: Get the power strip off the floor

• Under desk cable tray: a tray that clamps under the desk holds a power strip, chargers and spare cable out of sight. Look for a no-drill clamp-on tray that matches your desktop thickness. See under-desk trays and mounts.
• Power strip mount: the no-drill under-desk power strip mount clamps to the desk edge and holds a strip underneath, so plugs stay within reach.
• Cable box (cord hider): if the strip stays on the floor or a shelf, a cable box hides it. Browse cable boxes and cord hiders.

Check your desk thickness and power strip size against the tray or mount before you buy. Browse under-desk trays and mounts and cable boxes and cord hiders.

Step 3: Bundle cables that run together

• Zippered cable sleeves zip around a bundle, so you do not have to feed cables through a tube.
• Spiral cable wrap twists around cords and lets individual cables leave the bundle anywhere along it.
• Reusable hook-and-loop cable straps tidy loose lengths and coils.

Leave a little slack at each end so you can move the monitor or computer without pulling on the plugs.

Step 4: Route cables along the desk

Run the bundle along the back edge or underside of the desk to the tray or power strip. Stick-on cable ties combine an adhesive pad with a reusable strap and are made for routing cables along the back or underside of a desk. On the desktop, magnetic cable clips or an adhesive desk cable holder keep charging cables where you can grab them. Clean each spot before you stick anything down. See all cable clips, ties and organizers.

Step 5: Cover cables on walls and floors

• Cable raceway on a wall: the self-adhesive PVC cable raceway / cord cover (15 m) sticks along a wall or floor to keep cables in one channel. Cut it to the length of each run.
• Across the floor: a floor cord cover lies over cables that cross the floor and keeps them flat.

More options are in Cable Sleeves & Raceways.

Step 6: Label and tidy the extras

• Use reusable colour-coded cable labels or write-on cable tie tags so you know which plug is which. See Cable Labels.
• Store spare chargers and adapters in a clear cable and charger organizer box with removable dividers.
• Free up the desktop with a clamp-on headphone hook, a foldable clamp-on desk hook or a stick-on under-desk drawer for pens and small items.

Once the cables and small items are off the desktop, a desk pegboard panel gives you a slotted board for organizing a desk or workspace. The listing is the board only — hooks and accessories are not included. See Desk Pegboards.

Tips

• Measure each cable run before you cut a raceway or sleeve, and cut a little long.
• Keep the cables you unplug often, such as phone and laptop chargers, outside the bundle so you can reach them.
• Make one bundle per direction, for example one to the monitor and one to the computer, rather than one big bundle.
• Take a photo of the setup before you unplug everything so you can put it back together.

More options in the shop: the Delamu paintable cord hider kit, 157 in and the shinfly self-closing cable tidy sleeve, 6 m (ships to the United Kingdom only).

Frequently asked questions

What is the easiest way to hide cables without drilling?

Use a clamp-on under desk cable tray for the power strip, stick-on ties under the desk, and a self-adhesive raceway down the wall. None of these need screws.

What is the difference between a cord hider and a cable raceway?

“Cord hider” is a general term for anything that hides cables, including cable boxes and covers. A cable raceway is a channel that sticks to a wall or floor and holds cables in a line.

Will an under desk cable tray fit my desk?

Check the clamp range and tray size against your desk before you buy. Listings in under-desk trays and mounts give the desktop thickness each tray fits.

How do I keep charging cables on top of the desk?

Use magnetic clips or a slotted cable holder stuck to the desk, so the cable end stays put when unplugged.

Should I use zip ties?

Hook-and-loop straps are easier to undo when you change your setup, and they can be reused.

Related guides

What is nano tape and how to use it · All TidyMend guides

Quick answer: to use a grout pen, clean the grout lines thoroughly and let them dry, then run the pen along each line in one smooth pass. Wipe any colour off the tile face straight away with a damp cloth, work one area at a time, and let the grout dry fully before the area gets wet. A grout pen colours the surface of the grout; it does not fill cracked or missing grout.

What is a grout pen?

A grout pen is a marker with a nib sized for the joints between tiles. It coats the surface of the grout in an even colour, which can make tired, stained or patchy grout lines look fresh again. It is a quick cosmetic job compared with raking out and replacing grout.

TidyMend sells white tile grout pens (3 pack) and a cream tile grout pen for bathroom and kitchen tiles. See all Tile & Grout Repair products.

What you need

• A grout pen in the colour you want (white or cream)
• A stiff brush, such as an old toothbrush or a grout brush
• A household cleaner suitable for your tiles
• A damp cloth and a dry cloth
• Optional: masking tape for very glossy or textured tiles

Step-by-step: how to use a grout pen

1. Check the grout. Look for cracks, crumbling or missing grout. A pen will not fix those; repair or replace that grout first.
2. Clean the grout lines. Scrub the grout with a brush and a suitable cleaner to remove soap residue, grease and dirt. Rinse with clean water.
3. Let it dry completely. Grout pens work best on dry grout. In a bathroom, open a window or leave the fan running, and leave the area unused for a while.
4. Prepare the pen. Follow the instructions on the pen, which usually means shaking it and pressing the nib on a scrap surface until the colour flows.
5. Test a small area. Try the pen on a short line in a less visible spot to check the colour and how easily it wipes off your tiles.
6. Apply along each line. Hold the pen at a steady angle and draw it along the grout line in one smooth stroke. Do the horizontal lines in a section, then the vertical lines.
7. Wipe the tile face straight away. Wipe any colour that lands on the tiles with a damp cloth before it dries. Working on one small area at a time makes this easier.
8. Let it dry. Leave the grout to dry before the area gets wet, following the drying guidance on the pen.
9. Check and touch up. Look at the lines in good light and go over any patchy spots once the first coat is dry.

White or cream?

White gives a bright, crisp look and suits white or very light tiles. Cream is softer and can suit cream, beige or warm-toned tiles. If you are unsure, test a short line first. Use one colour across a whole wall or floor so the lines match.

When a grout pen is not the right fix

• Stained joints you would rather cover: self-adhesive tile gap tape is a white strip that covers grout lines and small gaps along tiles, counters and sinks.
• Chipped or cracked tiles: a two-part tile repair paste kit is made for filling chips and cracks in tile, tub and sink surfaces.
• Worn caulk around a bath or sink: peel-and-stick caulk tape covers tired caulk lines, or use a caulking finishing tool kit if you are re-caulking; see how to use caulk tape.
• Cracked, crumbling or missing grout: rake out the damaged grout and regrout before colouring.

Tips for a neat finish

• Good light helps you see missed spots; a torch held at an angle shows patchy lines.
• Steady your hand by resting your little finger on the tile as you draw the line.
• On textured or very glossy tiles, masking tape along the tile edges can keep the colour on the grout.
• Clean the grout regularly afterwards to keep the lines looking fresh.

Frequently asked questions

Do grout pens work on floor tiles?

Our cream grout pen is described for bathroom and kitchen walls and floors. Floors get more wear, so you may need to touch up busy areas from time to time.

How long does a grout pen take to dry?

It depends on the pen, the room and how thickly you apply it, so follow the instructions on the pen. Keep the area dry until the colour has fully dried.

Can I use a grout pen in the shower?

You can use it on shower wall tiles. Clean and dry the grout thoroughly first, and let the colour dry before you use the shower again.

Will a grout pen cover mould?

Clean the grout first rather than painting over marks. A grout pen colours the surface; it is not a cleaner or a treatment.

What if I get grout pen on the tiles?

Wipe it off straight away with a damp cloth. It is easiest to remove before it dries.

Related guides

How to organize under the kitchen sink · How to use caulk tape · Wall & Surface Repair · All TidyMend guides

Quick answer: nano tape is a clear, gel-like double-sided mounting tape. To use it, clean and dry both surfaces, cut or peel off a piece, stick it to the back of a light item, remove the second liner and press the item firmly onto a smooth surface. It is meant for light items on clean, smooth surfaces such as tile, glass, metal and smooth plastic, not for heavy objects or textured walls.

What is nano tape?

“Nano tape” is a common name for a transparent double-sided tape with a soft, gel-like adhesive layer. You may also see it called gel tape, clear mounting tape or reusable mounting tape. It is usually sold on a roll that you cut to length, or as pre-cut strips. Because it is clear, it is less noticeable than foam mounting tape when an edge shows.

TidyMend sells reusable double-sided nano mounting tape in pre-cut strips supplied in a small case, and clear double-sided mounting tape (20 mm × 1 m × 1 mm) on a roll. Both are in Mounting & Double-Sided Tape.

What can you use nano tape for?

• Holding a remote, small organiser or phone stand in place on a desk or shelf
• Stopping small objects sliding around on a shelf, dashboard or tray
• Fixing small, light frames or signs to smooth surfaces
• Keeping a small cable box, charger tray or desk accessory from moving

For hanging things such as towels, keys or utensils, an adhesive hook is usually a better fit than tape on its own.

Step-by-step: how to use nano tape

1. Check the item and the surface. Use nano tape for light items only. The surface should be smooth and non-porous; tape does not hold well on textured walls, wallpaper, fabric or dusty surfaces.
2. Clean both surfaces. Wipe the back of the item and the spot where it will go to remove dust and grease, then let both dry completely.
3. Cut or take a strip. Cut a piece from the roll with scissors, or peel a pre-cut strip from its case. Use enough tape to cover a good part of the back of the item, with pieces near the edges and corners.
4. Stick it to the item first. Peel off one liner and press the tape onto the back of the item. Try not to touch the sticky side with your fingers.
5. Position and press. Remove the second liner, line the item up and press it firmly onto the surface for several seconds, pressing over every part of the tape.
6. Give it time. Follow the guidance on the packaging and leave the item for a while before you use it or put anything on it.

How to remove nano tape

Lift one edge slowly, pulling the tape back along the surface rather than straight out. Peel gently; do not yank. Some adhesive tapes may mark painted walls or wallpaper when removed, so test in a hidden spot first if you are unsure, especially in a rented home.

Can nano tape be reused?

Tape sold as reusable, like our nano mounting tape strips, can be peeled off and used again. How well it sticks a second time depends on how clean it stays. Keep spare strips in their case so the sticky surface stays free of dust, and check the packaging for any cleaning instructions.

Nano tape vs. other mounting options

• Nano / gel tape: clear, cut to any length, good for small, light items and for stopping things sliding.
• Adhesive hooks: better for hanging things, with a hook already attached. See clear adhesive wall hooks or self-adhesive J-hooks.
• Adhesive screw hooks: a clear pad with a screw post, for fitting small racks or frames that have a hanging hole. See no-drill adhesive screw hooks.
• Screws and wall plugs: the usual choice for heavy items such as shelves, mirrors or TVs.

More options in the shop: the EZlifego clear nano mounting tape, 3 m, the ALIEN TAPE nano tape, 3 rolls (ships to the United States only) and the GRIFEMA clear reusable double-sided tape, 3 m (ships to the United Kingdom only).

Frequently asked questions

Is nano tape the same as double-sided tape?

It is a type of double-sided tape. The difference is the clear, gel-like adhesive layer, which is thicker and softer than thin paper-backed double-sided tape.

What surfaces does nano tape work on?

Clean, smooth, non-porous surfaces such as glass, tile, metal and smooth plastic. It is not suited to textured walls, wallpaper, fabric or surfaces that shed dust.

How much weight can nano tape hold?

It depends on the tape, the surface and how much tape you use, so follow the guidance on the packaging. Our product pages describe these tapes for light items, so do not use them for heavy objects or anything that could fall and break.

Will nano tape damage my wall?

It may mark painted walls or wallpaper when removed. Use it on tile, glass or metal where possible, and peel it off slowly.

Can I use nano tape in the bathroom or kitchen?

You can use it on clean, dry tile or glass. Let it settle before the area gets wet, and keep to light items.

Related guides

How to hide and organize desk cables · How to organize under the kitchen sink · How to fill nail holes in a wall · How to use adhesive hooks · All TidyMend guides